FEP330BL0 Roper Range - Instructions

Plugged in the new burner, which we received in one day.We were delighted with the quick service

Simple to do. Remove old element, remove screw holding socket, cut the socket wires with 2 inches to spare, assemble the newsocket and wires with heat shrink tubing, strip range wires, apply the wire nuts as instructed and shrink the tubning with a heat gun.

Screw on the socket to the range. Shut the lid and install the element.

The replacemnet screw is thicker than the original one, so you might want to drill out the hole very slightly. I did not but the resistance was high on getting the screw fully seated.

Works great

Started out removing the old clip that didnt hold burner element down anymore. It was a bit rough, since i was taking off a rivet. I used the screwdriver to carefully wedge the edges of the rivet upward so that i could get the wire cutters underneath it enough to snap the head off. After some fanagling for about 20 minutes, i popped it off. The rest of the repair went like cake, and i am soooo thankful that the replacement part i ordered from you included a screw and a nut. Next time, if there is a next time, this repair could be done in 2 minutes. THANK YOU FOR SAVING THANKSGIVING AND A $100 REPAIRMAN SERVICE COST FOR A $10 PART!!!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

simply turned off power. took old element out, held in by two screws. pulled out far enough to take off wires. removed and replaced with new element. that was a purfect fit. Works great.

Removed 2 screws holding element in place. Pulled out element to access two wires. Slid off the old element connectors. Placed new element in place and attached the two wires. Pushed it back into place and replaced the screws. Done in 10 min max.

took out the old heating elments and cleaned the bottom & top of oven with out the elments in, which made it alot easier then put new ones in. They were very easy to do, just make sure you watch how you took old ones out and don't loose the screws cause you use them to put new ones in.

SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.

I just had to pull out the old burner and straighten the prongs for the new burner and insert, The prongs of the new burner were slightly bent in shipment, but were easy to straighten with the pliers. The burners were sent in a bag and not a box -- therefore the prongs were easily bent. I was very pleased that I (73 year old lady) was able to fix my stove without a repairman. Saved $$$

Simple, just pull out old burners and slide new ones in place. Tried both, they work excellent!

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!

I had to remove the original clips (broken or damaged). This was the hardest part -- the clips were held on by rivets (not screws), so I had to pound/punch them out (using care so not to damage the stove top). Once I punched the rivet out all that remained was a small hole, I just used the small nut and bolt that came with my stablizer clip kit and mounted the new clips. Everything worked out fine.