FEP330EQ1 Roper Range - Instructions

removed the old ones.then installed the new ones.

a really simple fix! the parts came really quickly and all i had to do was pull the heating elements out along with the old drip pans and line up the new pans and push back in. the drip pans weren't 100% perfect as they were a universal fit, and were missing the clips that help the heating elements i nplace, but they look fine and do the job all the same.

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Keep in mind that I am a 65 year old woman who has replaced bake elements on a much older range that was hard wired. I viewed the video so I knew what to expect. The job would have taken no more than 15 minutes if the retaining screws had not been stuck. After several doses of WD40, I finally managed to get them loose but only then after I had tried every screw driver in the house. I clamped the leads with vise grips to keep them from slipping back in the stove. Unplugging the old broken element and plugging in the new one took maybe a couple of minutes. The retaining screws went back in without a problem.

I determined the problem by swapping the 8 inch burner with a 6 inch burner. the 8 inch got hot when connected to the 6 inch wire harness. This told me that the 8 inch burner was good. The 6 inch failed to get hot so I determined the next logical thing was the power to the 8 inch burner. I used a multi meter to determine that power was getting into the control unit but no voltage was getting out. The controller was bad. I ordered a new controller and after unplugging the stove, replaced the controller in about 10 minutes. (Critical part of repair is to unplug unit from wall -220 volts!)

First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen

So easy. Unplug the range. (really important. You're working with wiring after all) Unscrew the metal plate holding the bake element in place, gently pull out the wires and detach the element from them. (the element just pulls off, but it was attached pretty tightly so I did have to use needlenose pliers to get a better grip on it.) Then simply plug in the new bake element, push the wires back in, reattach the metal plate and bake a cake! Don't even think about calling a repairman for this one! It took under 10 minutes once I got around to ordering the element. (none of the local stores carried them)

The kit was not supposed to fit my particular model but I felt the picture was exact and took a chance and had it sent. It was a perfect fit and was easy to assemble and looks like a new stove. I paid one third of the cost estimates that I got from local appliance centers and even other on line sites. I'm very please with the product and the delivery was more than prompt!! I couldn't believe the service!!! Thanks!!

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

Unpluged from electric. I took two bolts out of back of oven attached to boiler. Pulled out and exposed cords the attach to boiler. Slide them off and removed old boiler. Attached cords to new boiler and slide part back in to attach the two bolts back. Plugged oven back in and worked great

Followed the video step by step. No problem