FGS397XW0 Roper Range - Instructions

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.

I bought the part and replaced it.

found igniter not working, pulled up on door and it came off, lifted up bottom of oven and pulled out, removed wing nut on deflector to access igniter, removed igniter retaining bolts, unplugged connector, be careful not to let connector slip back in stove, and reverse process to install new igniter,, all took about twenty minutes, easy repair,

First turned off power to oven, Took burner out by lifting up and pulling out, then pulled out wires attached to the oven and igniter, removed two wire nuts and disconnected the wires then removed burner assembly from oven. With screwdriver and nut driver removed old igniter from housing and put new one in place, tightened up screws carried back to oven reattached wires with wirenuts and feed wires back into oven, then put burner back carefully silding igniter into hole in back of oven. Turned power back on to oven and worked nice. Took all of 15 mins to complete.