FGS337GQ5 Roper Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Derrick from Marlton, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10268483
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
burner grate burnt out
Replaced grates
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- Customer:
- JAMES from WESTERVILLE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 8184859
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dented front trim
Replaced trim kit found on site. Everything went well. No real problems. I will book mark your site for the any other parts I may need.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Hayward, WI
- Parts Used:
- 8184859
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven door trim was rusty
Remember how you remove the glass. The side brackets go under the glass.
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Sykesville, MD
- Parts Used:
- WP3196262
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace oven door light switch
The replacement proceeds similarly as for electric range switch replacements described here, only this model is a gas range. The top panel does not lift up because of the feeds to the gas burners. It is possible, using a thin blade, to depress the spring fingers holding the switch in the oven panel, or else to remove it destructively. Be careful not to pull the old switch out too far, or else the wires will pull off the switch connectors and fall inside the oven-side panel cavity. This happened to me. The wires are very short. Another 1/2 inch of wire would have made all the difference. If this happens you have to fish out the loose wire. I gave up on this and took off the back panel (about 8 screws) and then loosened the bottom and sides of the side panel. This allowed me to retrieve the short wire and connect it to the back of the switch while pushing the switch into its mounting hole. Reattach the side panel, the back panel, and slide the stove back into place, and you should be good to go.
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Door trim (sides and bottom) needed replacing.
Remove the bottom drawer. Remove the two Phillips head screws on the top inside of the door. Pull up on the handle (CAUTION: Be sure to hold the glass front against the door while doing this or the glass front can fall, possibly damaging it. Remove the glass front by lifting it towards the top of the door. Remove the two side pieces and the bottom trim piece by unscrewing the Phillips head screws located on the underside of the bottom trim piece. Discard the old trim pieces. Attach the new metal bottom trim piece using three of the previously removed screws. Do not tighten the screws at this time. Each plastic side piece has a nipple at the bottom. Insert this nipple into the outermost hole at each end of the bottom trim piece. The edge of the flange on each side piece should face inward. Have an assistant hold the two side pieces against the door frame while you slide the glass back in. The inward facing flanges go UNDER the glass. Reinstall the top piece making sure the indentations at the top of the side pieces are under the top piece. Install and tighten the two screws that hold the top piece on. Tighten the three screws holding the bottom trim piece.
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- Customer:
- L Allen from Savannah, GA
- Parts Used:
- 8184859
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
trim on oven door rusting
First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen
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