FGP335GW1 Roper Range - Instructions

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.

Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connected the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.

This model does not have a removable bottom drawer making access a bit of a challenge.
1. Remove power to the range.
2. Remove the oven door and the kick panel below.
3. Remove the floor of the oven.
4. Remove the burner shield.
5. Become a contortionist, then stick your head and torso in the gas oven.
6. Look at the top in the back to see how the broiler igniter is mounted. Use this to select the proper size wrench. I suggest using little ignition wrenches. The oven igniter is mounted in the same manner.
7. Locate the oven igniter at the bottom, in the back, at the center. Remove the small screw taking care that you do NOT drop the wrench or the screw. This will be done by feel as the screw is only visible after you remove it.
8. Route the wire of the new igniter down, next to the old igniter wire.
9. Crawl under the oven (behind the kick panel you removed, and cut the wire.
11. While you are under there, strip the insulation back on the wires about 3/8 inch. Splice the new igniter wire to the oven using the new wire nut. Check that it is secure.
12. Back to the oven. If your back is still holding up, remove the old igniter. Install the new igniter and the old screw. Tighten securely, taking care to not strip the threads.
13. Remove all of your tools, your head, and your torso.
14. Plug the oven back in temporarily, turn the oven on and verify the igniter heats up.
15. Unplug the range again.
16. Reinstall the burner shield, the oven bottom, the door and the kick panel.
17. Make sure you have all of your tools, stand up, and since you are now a contortionist, pat yourself on the back!

Called repair man and described the problem. He said I could do it myself. PartSelect had the part and a previous description on the PartSelect site told me how to do the repair. It was easy. Be careful when removing the igniter nuts. I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil so as not to strip the threads. works great.

Unscrewed old pan and screwed on new one.

this was so simple.. attach with 2 screws and plug in and done.. less than a minute.. to be honest it took me longer to put the oven back together than installing the new part. lol

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Ordered the part from you it came the next day didn't need to pay for upgraded shipping, nice. Followed the easy instructions on your site. It had all the right hardware it literally clipped on the wires and bingo worked like a champion. I've done this on many ovens it sure beats calling an appliance repairman and getting ripped off for a 15 minute job. Thanks.

Pulled racks and covers out of oven. Moved stove away from wall. removed bolts holding igniter. Disconnected wiring harness. Reverse process to install new part.

First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen