SES370XX0 Roper Range - Instructions

i just unpluged the old burner and slideed the new burners in place and they work great now like a new range

Pulled out element, plugged in new element. About 5 seconds.

Removed two screws-put burner in-pit screws back in! Turned over on and it worked!!!

I first killed the power to the oven by switching off the circuit breaker and then unplugging it from the wall. With the oven pulled out, I removed the back cover panel to disconnect the lower (bake) element power leads from the broken element. I removed the two screws on the metal plate that attached the element unit to the oven and removed the whole bake element assembly from the oven. I then inserted the new element assembly into the oven and reattached the screws. The next step was to reattach the power leads to the new element. It was then time to put the back cover panel back on and plug the oven back in. I then pushed the oven back into place and switched the circuit breaker back on. Finally, I tested the new element to see if it operated properly by setting a temperature and observed the temperature on a separate oven thermometer used for baking. Your exploded views of the oven helped me plan and execute this repair. Good feature that would be even better if the resolution was a bit better.

Replaced drip pans and now everything is level.

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connected them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

I followed the instructions provided.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and was about to disconnect the two wires. It was a bit hard to pull out the wires by hand, but I got some WD-40 and pliers and it was easy. Hooked up and replaced and voila. It was done. Saved me a new $1,500 stove. I wish I knew that the lamp only needed to be unscrewed and not the whole unit replaced.

Shut off power to the stove.
I removed the screw that held the block in place. Then I lifted the top of the rage to get to the wires. I cut the wires from the old block and stripped back the insulation. Next I put the heat shrinking sleeve on. I attached the new block with the wire nuts, pulled the sleeve down and used a hair dryer to shrink them. Then you just hook it back on screw it in and your done.

I removed the block, cut and spliced the wires to the new block and installed the burner. I used the new style block kit and saved about $30. It worked great!

remove burned out eye, replaced with new eye.new eye does not fit exactally correct onto splash pan as point on end of steel " rod " not pointed enough to slip into mate on splash pan

E. G. First we turned off the circuit to the range. Then with a flash light to see we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. We then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. . . Then connected the two wires to new element and put the ends back into opening and replaced the two screws that hold the element in place. The hardest part was getting to the back of the oven for an 82 year old and a 94 year old but we got it working again!.

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.