FGS337GN0 Roper Range - Instructions

Remember how you remove the glass. The side brackets go under the glass.

We ordered our part from PartSelect.com, of course, using their diagnostic tool(s). We received it very rapidly after ordering (a day or two). It involved taking two screws out of the bottom plate of the oven. There were two screws in the diverter (?), but they weren't attached to anything. I had my son, who is young, strong, and small get behind the oven to locate where the igniter plugged in. He detached it and I unscrewed the nuts holding it in place. One of them was in pretty crooked and made it a little difficult. But I pulled it out. I put the new one in place, my son plugged it in, and I replaced the two nuts, securing the new one in place. I replaced all the parts and their screws while the wife cleaned the gunk from behind where the stove sits. We did perform a quick test prior to re-assembly and it looked good. Re-attached everything, put it back in place and it's working like a dream. Just in time for Fall baked goods...

Removed bottom plate by pulling up from the back (had some resitance), Two machine screws holding cover over igniter, used 3/8" socket to remove. Pulled oven from wall to disconnect igniter @ coupler, unscrew one more machine screw, fed replacement igniter into slot and coupled, attached single screw to pipe, put cover w/ 2 machine screws on top, install bottom plate. Had to use butter knife to get bottom plate to fit into the front cabinet area of stove. Done & working fine.

First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen

The igniter would glow but no gas was released to the burner. I was told that the igniter is bad because it is not getting hot enough to open the safety valve to release the gas to the burner. I turn the gas off and unplugged the oven. Opened the oven removed the racks then removed the two screws that hold the bottom plate of the oven. Now I can see the burner and the igniter. The igniter is held on to the burner with two screws. Unscrew then and unplugged the wires. Then replaced with new igniter. Replaced everything that I removed. Plugged oven back in and turned on gas. Then started oven, it takes 45 sec. for the igniter to get hot enough to release the gas and everything was working.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

I pulled the stove out from the wall & took the back lower right cover off. Unplugged the power cord & disconnected the igniter from the power. Took shelves & bottom cover (took two screws out)from oven. Used nutdriver to remove old igniter, then pulled the connector through into the oven, discard. Put new igniter in place with nutdriver.Push connecting cord through to back of stove.Replace bottom cover & shelves. Plug cords together & plug cord back in to outlet.Turn stove on & igniter works!!! Push stove back into place & bake a cake! :)

The first challenge is always how to get the appliance apart; in this case how to open the top of the stove. There are two clips one on each side towards the front that you need to push in to release the top. However before you do this you need to unscrew and remove each of the burners from the top of the stove. After that, push the clips in with a flat blade screwdriver from each side to lift up the top. You will need to remove completely the top back plate on the rear of the appliance to get to the igniter module where you plug in the wires from the individual igniters. Then you also need to remove the top four screws from the lower rear plate to allow it to be pulled open enough to help thread the wire from the new igniter through. After that you simply figure out which wire (they are individually colored based on their position on the burner) and disconnect from the igniter module. Carefully pull it out watching where it came from so you can rout the new wire in a similar manner. Then remove it completely pulling it through the top of the stove and replace with the new igniter. Reverse the steps to put everything back together and you should be good to go. Be prepared to take a little extra time to clean the cook top as once you remove the burner you will see everything that has over the years accumulated between the burner and the stove top. All together it took me about a 1/2 hour (including the cleaning).

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Excellent delivery.

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.