FGP335GN1 Roper Range - Instructions

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.

Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connected the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)

took out old oven bottom by removing 2 screws, placed the new oven bottom in place put the screws back in and was done.

The repair went well. Only took a few minutes. Oven is 21 years old and still working. I figured why throw away if still working. Thank you Select Parts for coming to my rescue. Will keep you in mind.

This model does not have a removable bottom drawer making access a bit of a challenge.
1. Remove power to the range.
2. Remove the oven door and the kick panel below.
3. Remove the floor of the oven.
4. Remove the burner shield.
5. Become a contortionist, then stick your head and torso in the gas oven.
6. Look at the top in the back to see how the broiler igniter is mounted. Use this to select the proper size wrench. I suggest using little ignition wrenches. The oven igniter is mounted in the same manner.
7. Locate the oven igniter at the bottom, in the back, at the center. Remove the small screw taking care that you do NOT drop the wrench or the screw. This will be done by feel as the screw is only visible after you remove it.
8. Route the wire of the new igniter down, next to the old igniter wire.
9. Crawl under the oven (behind the kick panel you removed, and cut the wire.
11. While you are under there, strip the insulation back on the wires about 3/8 inch. Splice the new igniter wire to the oven using the new wire nut. Check that it is secure.
12. Back to the oven. If your back is still holding up, remove the old igniter. Install the new igniter and the old screw. Tighten securely, taking care to not strip the threads.
13. Remove all of your tools, your head, and your torso.
14. Plug the oven back in temporarily, turn the oven on and verify the igniter heats up.
15. Unplug the range again.
16. Reinstall the burner shield, the oven bottom, the door and the kick panel.
17. Make sure you have all of your tools, stand up, and since you are now a contortionist, pat yourself on the back!

Called repair man and described the problem. He said I could do it myself. PartSelect had the part and a previous description on the PartSelect site told me how to do the repair. It was easy. Be careful when removing the igniter nuts. I used a very small amount of sewing machine oil so as not to strip the threads. works great.

Unscrewed old pan and screwed on new one.

this was so simple.. attach with 2 screws and plug in and done.. less than a minute.. to be honest it took me longer to put the oven back together than installing the new part. lol

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Excellent delivery.