FEP330GW1 Roper Range - Instructions

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

I broke the old trim when cleaning. New trim kit went together great. No screws needed because of new design. Best tip I can give is that the side trim pieces around the oven door go behind the glass on the door not in front of the glass. Visual instructions would be great.

Sanded element contact, replaced connector block. The easiest part of the task was ordering the part online. You made it unbelievably easy. I was amazed!

I tested the element with a digital meter and found it was bad but I also followed your great tip to replace the receptacle which it really needed replaced also. Both parts now work and fit like new. Thanks

Cut, splice and heat shrink.

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

No tools needed. And it's always great to be able to replace parts on my VERY old counter-top range. It still works very well, and now it also looks great. Delivery was amazingly fast, too! Thanks!

Just cut the old receptacle wires and splice in new kit. Very simple and worked perfectly.

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

Replaced trim kit found on site. Everything went well. No real problems. I will book mark your site for the any other parts I may need.

Remember how you remove the glass. The side brackets go under the glass.

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Remove the bottom drawer. Remove the two Phillips head screws on the top inside of the door. Pull up on the handle (CAUTION: Be sure to hold the glass front against the door while doing this or the glass front can fall, possibly damaging it. Remove the glass front by lifting it towards the top of the door. Remove the two side pieces and the bottom trim piece by unscrewing the Phillips head screws located on the underside of the bottom trim piece. Discard the old trim pieces. Attach the new metal bottom trim piece using three of the previously removed screws. Do not tighten the screws at this time. Each plastic side piece has a nipple at the bottom. Insert this nipple into the outermost hole at each end of the bottom trim piece. The edge of the flange on each side piece should face inward. Have an assistant hold the two side pieces against the door frame while you slide the glass back in. The inward facing flanges go UNDER the glass. Reinstall the top piece making sure the indentations at the top of the side pieces are under the top piece. Install and tighten the two screws that hold the top piece on. Tighten the three screws holding the bottom trim piece.

First time was very difficult I tried to make the panel fit into the frame. Broke both side pieces of the trim.Even thouth I broke the trim PartSelect replaced them. I did not expect that.Second time it was easy. Remove the handle first and then the panel slides into the top and bottom only. It does not slide into the side of the frame but sits on top of it. Thanks, Allen