FGP325GW0 Roper Range - Instructions

Easy. Slide oven away from wall. Turn gas off and unplug. Open oven door. Remove grates and lift out bottom tray to access igniter. Igniter is affixed to burner tube using (QTY=2) 1/4” bolts. Used socket wrench due to limited space for nut driver handle length. Detach igniter. Got to back of oven and remove the protective plate at the bottom. There are three phillips screws. Verify you have the correct cable for igniter by tugging on igniter in oven. Pull old igniter out. Replace old igniter with new using old bolts! Run igniter cable through back using same hole as old igniter. Plug in connector in the same fashion as prior. Before reassembly, test oven. Plug oven in and turn gas back on. Set oven to bake and set temperature. If igniter lights the gas burner tube, you’re done! Reverse process to put oven back together. Job takes 20 minutes, maximum. Saved a bundle!

It was a very simple repair pulled the old ignitor, and installed the new one in under 15 minutes. It was nice that it was a factory original part and matched perfectly. The wiring plug matched so no need to cut the plug and get ceramic wire nuts. The ignitor works perfectly and gets white hot rather than dark orange, the gas ignites in 20 seconds compared to 90 seconds.

Used a nut driver removed 2 bolts from igniter and 1 wire clip in the back looked on website other people had the same problem ordered part received it in 3 days installed new igniter took about 5 minutes to take out and 5 to install the new one now my oven is working great thanks to this site

this is the easiest repair possible. take out bottom drawer.. disconnect power cord. igniter is above burner grid.remove the two screws {be careful not to lose them}. move stove out from wall. from behind stove remove three small screws holding tin cover. and unplug the connector..install new igniter from under stove and plug in connector. install tin cover and move stove back in. replace bottom drawer. and plug in power. replacement saved the repair cost or replacement of a new stove..

Unscrewed old pan and screwed on new one.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

It was worth the money for that little screw, since I didn't have to run all over trying to find the right one.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Used new differant screws to mount it and cut and spliced the wires to use the org. Plug.

Moved oven away from wall, Turned off gas and unplugged electrical from wall. The igniter has a coupler plug that you have to unplug from behind the unit. Take out the bottom drawer. Remove the 2 nuts holding the igniter in place. Remove old igniter. Replace with the new igniter, screw in nuts and thread connector wire to back of unit. Reconnect the igniter behind the unit. Turn on gas and plug in electricity. I checked to make sure it worked before pushing it back into place. I also took time to clean up while the oven was pulled out so it took about an hour - 15 minutes to replace the part - 45 to clean up. Works and looks just like a new oven range!

Ordered parts that I thought were correct. BUT I ordered from the door parts... which gave me the wrong screw and unnecessary shims. What I really needed was the cabinet parts! At the time of doing the order, I could not find the owner manual... but found it before the parts arrived. That is what saved me and also thanks to me, for being a pack rat and my grandson finding the spacer on floor after it came out. That made it possible to fix the door. The screw I tried to install, but soon realized it was wrong. I went thru the pack rat stash and found the screw that fell out late last year.....! I then noticed the screw holding the hinge bracket was loose, now that is almost impossible to tighten because everything or tools that I owned were tooooo long (it's only 1 1/2" off the floor)! I tightened that and put the spacer and bottom hinge pin in. The screw was only 3/4" off the floor and difficult to get into the hole without a mirror on the floor under the spot. I finally used a clamp wrench to hold the screw and thread the screw into the hole. From there, most sockets are too long, so I did find a short socket. Now that still took me to the mirror, so I used the clamp wrench to hold the socket to tighten the screw. Thank goodness I am mechanically inclined and can look at a schematic to to understand how something works or I would have had to call for a mechanic. Also I should say ... FIND you manual before ordering to start with the right parts! Manual showed the parts of the cabinet and the door as one long picture, which helped with the repair and would have for ordering.

Removed a cover plate on the back of the stove. Unplugged the old igniter. Pulled the bottom drawer out. Reached in under the stove and undid the 2 screws holding the igniter in place. Screwed the new igniter in and put everything back together. The only tricky bit was reaching the igniter through the bottom drawer opening.

I removed the oven racks, removed the oven floor and the oven burner cover, pulled the range out and removed the small panel on the back which covers the igniter connector. I disconnected the old igniter, removed the two screws holding the igniter in place and removed the old igniter from the oven. Then screwed on the new igniter, fed the wire through to the back and connected the new igniter. Turned on the oven and voila' we have ingnition! The oven is working again but I'm getting the "F2" routine sometimes. It doesn't do it every time but when it does I unplug and replug and then it works. I'm a 67 year old female and I considered it very easy so pretty much anyone should be able to do this repair.

Opened lower door of stove located ignitor removed 2 small screws that secure part, took guard off back of stove unplugged wire connector removed part plugged new ignitor in re-installed guard, re-installed 2 screws that secure ignitor. Turned stove on oven lit problem solved. This is the 3rd time i have used instant repairman on parts select to fix 3 different applicances and have saved hundreds of dollars fixing it myself with the help of parts select.

To begin with,the symptoms were strange.....the burner would not ignite even though the igniter was glowing....but if you bumped anything in the broiler or pulled the drawer out and closed it abruptly,it would lite. This went on for a few weeks , until slamming and banging worked no more.(that was getting old anyway)I went ahead and ordered the igniter.It came fast and was very easy to replace.I went in from the oven,took out the racks and the bottom plate(2 screws), exposing the flame diverter that is just above the burner.(2 screws)You can access the igniter now ,and remove it.(2 screws),and unplug it.Reverse order to install the new one.I didnt unplug the range or turn off the power,because I screwed the igniter on first and then it was a matter of just plugging it in. Everything went back together and turned on the oven. Worked fine. Very easy to do,and no more banging around the broiler.Should have done it sooner.