S8757*1 Roper Range - Instructions

Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.

Followed the excellent removal and installation video by PartSelect. Also the diagram was excellent allowing me to purchase the correct hinge the first time. Fast shipping.

First shut down electric power to oven. remove
oven racks and botton tray. Removed boiler rack and door. Next unscrew 2 bolts holding igniter. remove nuts or cap for two white electric wires.
installed new igniter, hooked backup wires. replaces racks and tray and that was it, job done.

I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

removed oven door, removed drawer under oven, removed three screws holding hinge assembly, unhooked spring from hinge arm, inserted new hinge arm, attached spring, positioned hinge assembly and replaced screws, reinstalled drawer beneath oven being certain that no pot handles interfere with the hinge spring loaded arm, reinstall oven door.

Unplugged the oven. First i removed the 2 screws from the pan at the bottom of the oven and took the pan out. Next i took out the drawer underneath and took the screws out of the pans below to get to the ignitor. Unscrewed the ignitor and cut the wires below it to splice the new ignitor on. Spliced the two sets of wires and put the ceramic wire nuts on. Replaced the top and bottom pans and put the drawer back. plugged the oven back in and started the oven right up. Pretty easy.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

I tapped the screwdriver with a hammer lightly on each of three screws to loosen them. I checked to see the position of the spring on the hinge. I then removed the hinge, put on the new hinge and placed the spring in the exact same position. The door works very good. The hinge replacement was a no-brainer.

Removed the door. Unscrewed the hinge from front of oven. Took broiler drawer out. Unhooked the spring. Removed hinge. Screwed new hinge in. Rehooked the spring. Slid oven door back on hinges. Mission accomplished. Oven door works like a champ. Wife happy.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

The repair went surprisingly well! My only problem was the bottom screws needed WD40 to loosen, but otherwise the parts went in easily.

Assumed this broken hinge was going to be an expensive service call. Decided to try and fix it myself. Ordered the part off partselect.com and got some repair tips off the website that made this a breeze. I am not handy at all but was able to complete the replacement in less than 30 minutes and spent only $30 on the part. Just needed to unscrew the old hinge and release the spring from under the stove (which I accessed by pulling out the drawer). It would have cost me over $100 to just get a service person to look at it.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...

I really do not have the time to do this right now, however, I feel that it is important to tell everyone that dealing with PartSelect allowed me to repair the stove and please my wife in the easiest way possible. I will use PartSelect forever....