L3B115GL0 RCA Range - Instructions

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Removed the two screws pulled out the old element and slid the new element in and put the screws back in. I used it that night to bake supper

first i unplugged the stove to disconnect all power. next itried using pliers to unscrew the screws and was having a hard time so hubby got the adjustable wrench and it was much easier. after taking out the two screws, i pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the element from the two wires that hold it in place. then i snapped the new element in place just as the old one was and reattached the element to the stove using the two screws. after assuring that element was secure, i turned my oven on to 300 degrees and voila!!! we're cookin again!!!

the only challenging thing realizing that the screws in the back weren't for a screw driver, they were for a very small wrench. Since I didn't have such a tool, I just used vice grips. It all went well though. The oven currently heats to 400 degrees in 7.5 min. I am quite happy.

As others have described, the removal of the old bake element is easy, just undo screws in the mount holding it to the inside wall of oven and pull out, then disconnect wires.

The first thing I faced unique is that some of the old element melted on the walls of my oven. After scrubbing extensively, it was obvious that the majority of the melted element was permanently fused with the oven wall--although it doesn't seem to have affected oven performance so far.

Next since my range was made in 1982, the replacement bake element didn't exactly fit my unit. Several adjustments had to be made. The size and fuctionality of the new bake element matched my oven, however the wire connections and the oven wall mounting bracket and the spacing of the two ends of the element as it went thru the oven wall were very different and required extensive modifications.

I used the old mounting bracket from the old melted element to attach the new element since my oven wall opening and mounting holes matched the old element mount--NOT the new element mount. This required removing the old mount from the old element by means of a vice, hacksaw and wirecutters. It was necessary to examine the old element mount very carefully before I hacksawed it off the old element as it must be reconfigured onto the new element. It will be bent up somewhat while removing---be careful.

Then I reattached the old mount on the new element. This required carefully bending the new element ends to receive the old mount as they were spread too far apart in the new element configuration. After much trial and error bending with several types of wirecutters the old mount was secured to the new element and installed into the oven.

Now a new problem appeared--the element ends now stuck too far into the back wall of the oven, making them dangerously close to touching the exterior of the rear of the oven and remember these are bare, hot electric connections! Much time in trial bendings and repositioning of the new element with the old mount finally resulted in a successful mounting with the old mount and the new element in a way that safely kept the bare wire connections within the rear oven walls.

A final problem was encountered when the new element came with slide-on wire connectors while my old element had screws and holes to connect the wires together. I found a drill bit the size of the required screws and drilled holes in the new element's wire slide-on connectors so that I could use the screw connector system of my old element to connect my new element's wires together. It all worked and the oven is functional.

This was really easy considering what it would have cost to have a repair person come and do it - not to mention the wait time. I had to hunt around a little bit to find the right socket, but once I had that, I unscrewed the bolts in the back and slide the element out. TIP: make sure you turn off the electricity!!!!!!!!! The wires were a little stuck, but the oven is 11 years old, so it's to be expected. One of the wires came off behind the oven, but I used needle nose pliers and fished around until I grabbed it. I detached the wires, attached the new ones, turned the electricity on and it's been baking Christmas cookies ever since. BTW - the part came in 3 days. I was sooo happy I didn't have to wait for a repair person. Thanks for all of you who posted your comments online. That was just the encouragement I needed to try it myself!

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

Turned power off. Removed two screws holding the element. Pulled element out 3 inches, disconnected the two wires, pulled out old element, connected wires of new element, replaced screws. Turned power back on. Eureka!! the oven heats again. :-)

After removing the screws holding the element in I disconnected the wires and attached alligator clips to the wires to keep them from pulling back inside the holes. I would have had to pull the stove out and removed some covers if they disappeared through the holes. After getting the part number off of the old element, I ordered a new element from Partselect.com and received the new one in less the a week. Reinstalling the new element took about 5 minutes.

I removed the 2 nuts and pulled the element out until I reached the disconnect and unhooked the elements from the wire. Replaced the new one in reverse order. It was great finding the part here after Sears said they no longer made the part.

shut power off to range, took 2 screws out, took 2 snap on clips off old element. put snap on clips on new element, put 2 screws back in, and turned breaker on.

The left door hinge was broken. There are three screws that hold the hinge. It is very easy to take it out and put the replacement in

This repair was idiot-proof. Removed 2 screws, unplugged the old part, plugged in the new one, and replaced the 2 screws.
Literally a 2 minute repair!!

First I removed the oven door from the support hinges. Next I pulled the bottom pan drawer out to get to the tension spring. I released the tension from the hinge, unscrewed three screws that held the hinge in place. From there I replaced the hinge put all components back in place and did it all under 20 mins. The part was received with in 3 days from PartSelect so I was very satisisfied with the service and ease of repair.

just plugged in the two prings into burner into outlet. Very simple and quick.