BNEA3H2X Norge Range - Instructions

In principle it should be easy to replace the broil element in the wall oven, after unscrewing the supports for the back and front of the element (see other postings for details). The difficulty is with the ground screw, which is inconveniently only accessible from behind close to the back wall of the oven. A very short phillips screw driver is required, but designed so that good torque can be applied for unscrewing and replacing. The newly designed ground connector on the latest replacement elements makes life a little easier, but still be prepared to work slowly and carefully to complete the replacement. Note the new ground screws supplied only work with a flat-blade screw driver, not a phillips-type.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

slide stove out unplugged it took six screws out put new one in transfered wires pluged back in and it works thank you

After I removed the piece of metal separating the two wires, I inserted the unit with no problem.

Simply removed the old heating element and plug the new element terminals into socket.

I first removed the back panel that covers the switches from back of stove; then I removed the wires and put them on the same numbered wires on the new switch; put the new switch in place with the wires connected to it; installed the 2 front screws and put the back cover on again & it took about 10 min and saved about $300.

1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

We at first thought the replacement could be done by just removing 2 screws.
When in fact it was necessary to pull the oven from the cabinet, remove the rear metal shield in order to unplug the element.
The job went rather smoothly at a considerably less cost than if I had contacted a repair service which would have upped the price of the element plus the cost for the service call.

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

Turned off oven power.Removed oven heat shield, element support clips and element mounting plate screws. Disconnected three element power wires and ground wire. Removed old element. Reversed removal procedure for new element install. Piece of cake.

Repair went fine, insert helped, just take your time and remember the way you took out. Started without takeing door off, I am to short and door comes off easy, unscrew the two screws holding element leaving one not quite off then the back two screws then go back to upper screw remove and element will pull out, remove 3 wires remembering the order, Wiring is a little tricky (in the stove-just 3 plugins), just pay attention and will go smooth. Then remove element and go backwards and presto your done.

Turned off power at panel. Removed 2 Phillips screws holding broiler element support in place. Squirted 2 additional Phillips head screws attaching element to back of stove with WD-40 and removed screws. Slid element out to access electrical connection and used short phillips screwdriver to remove. Reattached electrical connection to new element with short screwdriver (no fun as you are cantilevered into the oven and have to hold the element, the screw and the screwdriver to do this). Slid element into support and screwed support to top of stove cavity to align element. Installed screws holding element onto back wall. Turned on power and ran element long enough to dissipate WD-40 fumes.

Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.

Grandson spent 1/2 hour installing unit and 15 minutes of that time was trying to get the very short grounded screw to begin to thread. It was a very small space to work in and it kept falling out. The instructions were a lot to be desired - almost nothing. He went to YouTube and got very explicit instructions. Then he had no problem as to what to do. The unit is working great now.