N3438VRV Norge Range - Instructions

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

With the back removed, replacing the lamp receptacle is straight-forward. Likewise, the door gasket is very easy. However, in order to replace the hinges, you have to remove the burner glass top (screws underneath the front lip), and inner and outer side panels. Also the supplied hinges mounting holes were not threaded so I had to use my own bolts, lock-washers and nuts in order to attach them. Total time, including a bit of cleaning, was 5 hours.

Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!

Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.

My wife said the oven would not heat up, I took a look at it and determined it was not igniting. I figured there was an electric spark like my BBQ. When I took the pan out of the bottom of the oven I saw that it did not look like anything I had seen before. I looked it up online and found out it had a glow ignitor that just heats up and then ignites the gas. Mine wasn't doing anything so I removed it, got a part number off of it an plugged that into this site. It came up with the part, i ordered it, put it in and started it up. probably took about 45 minutes total including taking it out and then replacing it. Really easy and the oven is now working fine. Figured it would have been a couple hundred dollars to have someone come to the house and fix it, I did it myself for less than 50. Thanks Partselect.

Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.

Took off the top plate at the bottom of the oven, and the flame spreader, removed 2 screws on the igniter, pulled out the broiler tray and unplugged it. Took longer to get off the floor than it did to replace the part.

I followed the video and it was incredibly easy. I shut the breaker off (we live in an apartment, and pulling the plug on the stove wasn't possible). I lifter out the old burner (the gasket underneath was corroded, and I just threw it out, as the newer burners are self-sealing); removed both the igniter wire and the ground wire (I needed a pliers to tug the igniter wire off); attached the new burner; replaced the burner; turned on the power; and voila!

USED CHANNELOCK PLIERS TO ROTATE BURNER COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. PULLED OFF THE CONNECTORS, APPLIED RUST TREATMENT TO THE REPLACEMENT PART, WHICH HAD ITSELF STARTED TO CORRODE. SPADE LUGS ON THE OLD PART HAD A SPADE ADAPTER, BUT THE CONNECTION SEEMED TO WORK REGARDLESS OF THE MISS-MATCH. PART WAS REPLACED, TURNING THE BURNER CLOCK-WISE. VERY QUICK AND EASY REPAIR.

Very easy, video helped tremendously

Thanks to previous posters, this seemed to be an igniter issue, and I found the idea of swapping the broiler igniter for the bottom one particularly good - I knew exactly what part was broken and how easy/hard the job would be prior to ordering. The part used snap in electric components, so the only work was in removing and re-installing the parts. Working in the oven was by FAR the most difficult part of the entire process.

I watched a repair video, unplugged the electric,turned off the gas valve and disconnected the gas line. removed the shelves and burner tray. removed 2 screws and unplugged the igniter. Replaced the igniter and put tray and racks in.Hooked up gas and plugged in the electrical plug. Job done....