L3872VYV Norge Range - Instructions

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

Lift burners out of plug discard old drip pans replace new drip pans into plugs and done .

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.

* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.

* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.

* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.

* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.

* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.

* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.

* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Removed the cooktop using screwdriver. Pushed lens-light into cooktop hole.It was difficult to do and was where I spent most of my time. Next time I will spray bottom of lens- light with silicon so it goes in easier. I stood cooktop up on its side and inserted the red light assembly onto the lens-light. Reinstalled cooktop
and turned electrical power on.

Turned off all power to range.
Removed two Philip head screws
Gentle pulled unit Element forward
Removed two push on connectors
(Do not let wires fall back into oven holes)

Reversed the process.

Ordered element and recieved in two days(yea). Removed back cover from unit. Removed two wire slide on wire clips. Then went inside oven cavity and removed two screws holding element intact. The element slid out. Installed element, re-installed two screws to hold element intact. Attached wire clips back on to element, re-attached back cover. Plugged unit back in and it worked perfectly. Eazy-peezy lemon squeezy.

John
Johnny on the Spot Home Repairs
Fishers, Indiana 317-997-3600

Removed the two screws that held the element in place and then pulled off the element from the connectors. Slipped the new connectors on. Tested the oven - Baked some blackberry cobbler!

Removed the old element by removing 2 screws and disconnecting two solderless connectors. One solderless connector was melted in two. I had to remove the rear panel and cut the old connector off and crimped on a new solderless connector. The time required was lengthened due to trip to the hardware store to get a new connector. While I was fixing the oven element my wife replaced the oven light.

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.