L6892VRV Norge Range - Instructions

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

Turned off the power at the breaker box. Removed the two screws, pulled the element out about 3 inches, disconnected the two wires, reconnected the two wires to the new element, inserted element back into place, screwed in the screws...all finished...works great! Delivery was super fast...just a great experience all the way around.

Being a woman, I first cleaned the oven. Removed two screws holding the element in place. Pulled element out about 3 inches and disconnected one clip attached to a yellow wire another clip attached to a green wire. Put new element in connected clips. Replaced screws.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

Pulled the oven away from the wall. Removed two screws inside the oven. Pulled old heating element out. When I did I heard a loud pop and and saw smoke. I assumed the element would not be electrically live if the oven was not on. That was obviously incorrect. I pulled the plug and then completed the installation. I went to chruch on Sunday and thanked God that I was not electrocuted. Now the oven works fine. My wife wanted the oven to die so that she could get a new alppliance, Instead I am alive.

Seriously your service was great. Your web site pointed me to the correct part, and it arrived the next day! I would definitely use your service again if I remember your name.

As I pulled the drawer looking for a pan stored in bottom drawer the drawer glide broke. The pictures of the parts were fantastic. Not being sure of which of two parts from the photos, I ordered two parts knowing that hopefully one would be the correct one and the other would not be the part I needed. Parts arrived and it was clear which of the two parts would fit perfectly.

I screwed in the part, and that was it , and I was relieved that the problem was solved! I kind of feel lucky that your company is in business! The other part is fully accepted and plan to send it back in for a refund. And oh yes, I solved my appliance problem under $20.00 - unbelieveable these days!

Thank you again for beng there!

1st removed the sealed burners
2nd removed stove top
3rd removed oven door
4th removed left and right side pannels to access door hinges
5th removed left and right hinges
6th installed new left and right hinges
then re-installed other components in reverse order.
The oven door now opens and closes properly, the heat stays in the oven!!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

Using the description on the first DIY, I did as told. All went well until the part about removing the panel to access the hinge. There isn't a "panel" on the side of this particular model of Magic Chef stove. You have to remove the entire side of the stove, and then, there's another panel inside of this one. That too has to come off. Once off, you're into the insulation surrounding the oven. Ain't pretty, I'll assure you. Then, the replacement hinge has holes in it for the mounting screws. The holes aren't threaded, and you have to replace the screws that come with the hinge with self-tapping screws. Either that, or thread the holes with a tap. Thank goodness my wife loves the stove, or it may have just gone out the door. This is not one of Magic Chefs better ideas. Either that, or they didn't plan on having to replace the hinge before the stove wore out.

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )