UNGW3G2KV Norge Range - Instructions

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.

Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!

removed door (pull up and out), removed all racks and bottom of oven, removed two screws holding old igniter, unplugged old igniter from harness, mounted new igniter using two screws and nuts purchased from local hardware store, plugged new igniter into harness, replaced bottom of oven and trays, slid oven door down over hinges. Oven works properly. Thanx!

Fist I removed the screws on the front-sides of the oven. Then I turned off the gas, by adjusting the in-line valve. I then unscrewed the gas fitting going into the bottom of the oven. I pulled the oven out, being careful not to put too much pull on the electrical cord. I put a bench in front of the oven and set it down.
I then removed the oven racks, and the plate in the bottom. Bottom element is bake, top element is broil. I unscrewed the igniter, then disconnected its plastic wire connector on the back of the oven, then pushed and pulled the connector into the oven and out the door.
Then I ordered my part for $30 less than Sears from PartSelect, and it got here STUPID FAST. I hooked it up and put everything back together, no big deal, BOOM - Cornbread!

Remove door. Disconnect power supply from the range.Remove shelves.Remove burner and disconnect power from igniter.Remove bad igniter and replace with new one,reconnect igniter to power supply. Replace burner and all parts that were removed.Re- connect appliance to power source. Range is ready to be used.

remove racks out of the oven. remove very bottom of oven and you will then have access to the ignitor.the part was a little difficult to remove due to the self tapping screws snapping upon removal.drilled them out and installed new ignitor.oven now works fantastic.

Our oven failed to cook in the Bake mode. I was thinking I needed to have a repairman come service it. I got the product manual & begin to do some research. I thought the problem was was in the control panel until a parts search took me to the Parts Select website where I read the other successful repair stories & the most likely reason it did not work. It was real simple. The only problem I had was a screw that held the ignitor stripped & I had to cut the head off. The directions sent with the part were dead on. I then simply installed new ignitor & presto - it works! My wire connection required stripping the wires & using the ceramic wirenuts. I am glad I found Part Select & will call again when needed!! Thanks !!

My oven would no longer ignite, and I asked a friend to help me see if we could fix it. We found an appliance repair manual online (www.appliancerepair.net), and it described that the most likely part needing replacement was the ceramic igniter - they do wear out, and my oven was - after all - over 20 yrs old, with never a repair! Then, somehow I found this PartSelect website, and after entering the make and model number, it showed the part, with a drawing, and dimensions - enough for me to be convinced it was the right part. I called and was reassured that if it were not the right part, it would be easy to return / refund. So, I ordered the part, standard shipping .... and to my great surprise, it was delivered the VERY NEXT DAY to my front door! And this was right before Christmas, a very busy time! The oven works like a charm now..... (I also had to clean out some of the gas holes, which can build up residues over time.) This repair cost less than $50, I'm sure if an appliance repair person came out it would have been more like $200 - not worth it for an oven this old. So, I'm happy with PartSelect!

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

A very common problem for ovens not heating up is the oven igniter going bad. Depending on how much you use your oven, they only last about 5 years. It is easy to replace, but getting it off can be a little tricky since the screws are exposed to so much heat. Once you got it off, you can unclip the old one and clip the new one right in. Then bolt it back on, throw in the racks and shelves, and start cooking. I replaced the igniter twice, the temperature sensor once, and the control panel once.

Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.