EST3102L (P1130627N L) Maytag Range - Instructions

Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received.
Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

Quick as I could with bad knee and empty stomach. Pizza was waiting to be cooked. . The young lady that took my order needs a bonus, exceptional extra effort on her part to get me the part. Very pleased with her attitude and service, hope you can track her down.

One screw taken out, 2 wires switched, new part & screw put in. Burner like new!

Replace the connector and bracket, spliced the wires, put heat to the schrink wrap and I was done.

While trying to clean the oven, I decided to remove the lower heating element to make it easier. After removing the 2 screws on the bracket that holds the heating element in place, I pulled the heating element out only to short it out on the back of the oven and wreck the element. Luckly I was not injured or shocked, so if you need to do this, I recommend reading the owner's manual on how to property ground out the circuit first.

Anyways, to replace it, I just removed the lower panel on the back of the oven (roughly 10 screws). Installed the new element on the inside of the oven and screwed it into place. Then, connected the wires to the element from the back of the oven. Replaced the panel and turned the power back on.

In all, it took probably 15-20 minutes to fix and only cost me $37. I know that a minimum repair cost for this from Sears would have been $150, so definitely worth my time.

I raised the stove top, read the instructions to my son while he did the work, then I lowered the stove top, installed the burner, and it worked like magic.

lifted the cover, unscrewed the ceramic wire fastners, put the new part in, and voila, job done and working perfectly

Pretty simple. Turned off breaker. Lifted the top, cut the 2 wires. Going to the burner, put the 2 wire nuts on, and screwed the bracket in.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected the new wires, replaced the two screws and turned on the oven to test it. Easiest repair job I have ever done.

I ordered the new part, which arrived in just 2 days. I did not pull the oven away from the wall, I merely turned off the electric, unscrewed the bad element, pulled it out enough to see the ends, and then I removed the existing wires using needle nose pliers. I put the wires on the new element, inserted it back into the oven wall, and screwed it tight. I turned the electric back on, and checked it out. Worked like a charm! Only 40 bucks (including shipping), five minutes of my time, and I avoided an expensive service call. :-)

Turned off 230 volt breaker to range,connected old wires to new element ,put back into place replaced the two mounting screws. Turned breaker back on and tested range.

It was real easy. Removed two screws, pulled the element forward, removed to clip on wires, removed element and put the new element in place, replaced wires and screws, turned it on and up to temp. in no time. great service and quick delivery on getting the part.

replaced element

removed the screws disconnected the old one and connected the new one and put the screws back on it