MER6772BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Unplugged the unit. Removed the back of the range and disconnected the top element connectors. Then removed the screws holding top element from inside the range. I did not remove the bottom rack so that my arm could rest on that rather than risk hitting the bottom element. Removed the top element and inserted new element. Placed the front bracket to hold element in place and tightend the two screws holding the element to the back of the range. Then reattached the connecting wires, replaced the back panel. Then completed attaching the braces holding element to top of range. Did not tighten braces until all screws had been started.

Make sure you unplug your stove before you start! You should probably shut off the power at the breaker box too.

Since the upper oven is so small, I found that I couldn't reach the connectors well enough to work with them. So I pulled out the whole oven, took the screws off the back cover and from the back I was able to easily reach where the wires connected to the element. Then it was a piece of cake.

Just use a small knife to unbend the little metal things that hold on to the metal ends of the element. Slide them on to the new element, and crimp them tight with pliers.

Oh, you also have to take off the bracket on the ceiling of the inside of the oven to get the old element out, and the new one in.

The oven has been working great!

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Repair would have only taken minutes, but upper support plate screws were rusted and almost fused to the plate. Once the plate screws were out (had to pry plate out) installation was done in 3-5 minutes.

As for the replacement part, worked perfect on the first try. Very happy with price, speed of delivery and preformance.

I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!

Turned off breaker to oven, removed racks, unscrewed the plate holding the element in place, and pulled out the wires a few inches. All easy and fine to this point. Never having done anything like this before, I wasn't sure HOW the element was attached to the wires, so tugged on them a bit, but nothing budged. Got a flashlight (it got dark in there with the upper part of my body in there)looked again, but still couldn't tell. Referred to this site and saw reports of "plug and play", went back and examined the ends more closely on old and new element, realized that they slide straight on and straight off in a "sleeve". Got some pliars and pulled the ends apart. Slid the new end on to one wire, but couldn't get the other one on until I realized I had crushed it a bit with the pliars. Reopened the "sleeve" with a vegetable knife and slid the other end of the element into the "sleeve" at the end of the wire. Then pushed the wires back in and screwed plate on. It took about 23 minutes, and that included time to look up this site and do some reading, jump up to find a flashlight, and jump up and find a pair of pliars. My hubby was out of town for 3 weeks and suggested I wait til he got home--glad I didn't wait.

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!

needed to completely dis assemble the oven door to get to the inner pane of glass...took some time...I was able to do it on my own...could possibly go a little quicker with two people for a few of the steps...but possible by one...then reinserted the glass pane...and then need to re assemble the door layer by layer...up and working again...would have cost several hundred dollars if need to call a repair person in...this way was the cost of the piece..less than $70 ... and my time...well worth it....thanks

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

Removed oven door and rack. Removed two screws holding element. Disconnected wires to element. One of the wires slipped into the back wall of the oven. The range had to be removed from the counter and back panel removed to gain access to the element wires. Install new bake element in upper oven. Connect wires to element spade lugs. Install rear panel. Restore power at circuit breaker panel. Very important - aways disconnect power before starting work.

PULLED THE POWER CORD!! Loosened a couple of screws holding the element to the rear oven wall, removed the electrical wires (red on left, yellow on right) attached to the baking element, removed old element, inserted new element and reattached the wires respectively thereto. One minor glitch did occur. The RED wire inadvertently slipped back through the hole into the insulation and was not retrievable. I removed the small metal plate housing the wires on the back bottom of the stove, pushed the red wire (plentiful length) back into the oven, reinstalled the plate, connected the red wire to the bake element, reconnected the power, element began to heat. Mission accomplished. One caution: Pay attention to the SHAPE of the failed element before ordering online or buying in person.