YMER7765WW3 Maytag Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Paul from HARMONY, MN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
temp level uneven
after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy
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- Customer:
- Rosalind from APOLLO, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the oven temperature was not working right. I installed a new oven sensor. Works get now
Watch the video...
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- Customer:
- michael from mesa, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W11230488
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
chemical etching of black painted finish on drawer front panel
took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!
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- Customer:
- Sandeep from EDINA, MN
- Parts Used:
- W10777162
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
screw came off
very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.
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- Customer:
- Hal from Northwood, NH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10476387
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven AND Broiler would not heat up
Diagnostics:
Turned off power to the range
Removed back panel of range to access the parts
Tested Oven element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Broiler element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Thermocouple with ohm meter - passed test
Conclusion: Control panel issue
Removed control panel connector that has the 2 wires that complete the circuit to the heating elements
This allows for testing the continuity across the control panel switch without 240 v power to the switch
Turned on power to the range
Pressed start on the oven front control panel
Can hear convection fan runs - passed test
Tested for continuity across the control panel switch - failed
Turned of power to the unit and ordered new control panel
Installation
Removed the 4 multi wire connectors running to the control panel
Removed the two screws holding the control panel in place
Installed new control panel, reconnected the wires and reinstalled the back panel
Repowered the stove and tested the oven and broiler - both heated
Turned off power to the range
Removed back panel of range to access the parts
Tested Oven element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Broiler element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Thermocouple with ohm meter - passed test
Conclusion: Control panel issue
Removed control panel connector that has the 2 wires that complete the circuit to the heating elements
This allows for testing the continuity across the control panel switch without 240 v power to the switch
Turned on power to the range
Pressed start on the oven front control panel
Can hear convection fan runs - passed test
Tested for continuity across the control panel switch - failed
Turned of power to the unit and ordered new control panel
Installation
Removed the 4 multi wire connectors running to the control panel
Removed the two screws holding the control panel in place
Installed new control panel, reconnected the wires and reinstalled the back panel
Repowered the stove and tested the oven and broiler - both heated
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- Customer:
- Jaime from Deltona, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Elements burned wouldn't heat
First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out
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- Customer:
- JOSEPH from COON RAPIDS, MN
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Worn/Bulb Socket
It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.
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- Customer:
- Silvia from BOTHELL, WA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10211371
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken Stove Knob
It took a view months, but well wort waiting for. My Stove is complete again, and I am very happy. Thank you for all your help.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from Greensboro, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10856603
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Oven Demon Possession
Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.
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- Customer:
- Carol from BELLINGHAM, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replacing oven light and socket
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
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- Customer:
- William H. from morehead city, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
electrical short from oven light.
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
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cooktop on the rt side would just keep getting hot
Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.
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- Customer:
- Rita from COOPERSBURG, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Burned out burnrr
Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.
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- Customer:
- bobby from HERSCHER, IL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10181986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
range would not heat right
very easy watched the howto you gave
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- Customer:
- Michael from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10434452
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dual element control switches were no longer regulating the burners properly (either on or off, no in-between)
1. Pull the stove away from the wall and unplug the stove from the 240 volt receptacle.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.
2. Remove the knob from the switch (it just pulls off).
3. Unscrew the top half of the back plate of the stove and removed (about eight or so screws).
4. Unscrew the two screws attaching the control switch in the front of the control panel (these were hidden by the control knob just removed).
5. Pull out the control switch and detach one at a time the two sets of wire connectors attached to the switch. In order not to confuse which plug goes where, attach each connector to the new switch as you remove them. (Note: the connectors may be quite tight to the original switch; do not pull on the wires but simply work each connector gently until it slides off. They will reattach to the new control switch much easier.)
6. Reinstall the new switch to the stove in reverse order of removal. Make sure that the control knob, when the switch is reattached, is in the off position pointing straight up.
7. Reattach the upper back plate of the stove. For safety's sake, do this before reconnecting the stove to power.
8. Plug in the stove and test to ensure that the switch is working properly.
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