YMER7765WW1 Maytag Range - Instructions

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Remove 2 screws inside oven holding element . Remove screws holding back panel. Plug wires (2) into new element.Install back panel . Done.

It took a view months, but well wort waiting for. My Stove is complete again, and I am very happy. Thank you for all your help.

Diagnostics:
Turned off power to the range
Removed back panel of range to access the parts
Tested Oven element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Broiler element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Thermocouple with ohm meter - passed test
Conclusion: Control panel issue
Removed control panel connector that has the 2 wires that complete the circuit to the heating elements
This allows for testing the continuity across the control panel switch without 240 v power to the switch
Turned on power to the range
Pressed start on the oven front control panel
Can hear convection fan runs - passed test
Tested for continuity across the control panel switch - failed
Turned of power to the unit and ordered new control panel
Installation
Removed the 4 multi wire connectors running to the control panel
Removed the two screws holding the control panel in place
Installed new control panel, reconnected the wires and reinstalled the back panel
Repowered the stove and tested the oven and broiler - both heated

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Our repair was extrodinarily easy. As my husband was taking out the old element and the oven was off, the element heated up and actually burned him. He readjusted it and it refused to heat again. We figured at that point that there must be a short, so we never even opened the box with the new element. A short time later we decided to use the top of the stove for soup and a small fire started in the oven. We turned off the braker at that point and ordered a new oven.

Undid one screw. Removed the broken slide. Replaced with new slide an fastened with the existing screw. Problem solved.

just replaced the broken glides with the new ones.

Used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the single screw holding the part in place and put the new one on. Finding the part on this site was a breeze and it arrived quickly. A first rate experience all around.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

I used a phillips screwdriver and replaced the part with one screw.Very easy and replaced my lower drawer under my oven,it tool about three to five minutes at the most and my drawer works fine now.Thanks for the instruction video on line, it really helped.