YMER7765WS3 Maytag Range - Instructions

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

I did the repair by myself. I used masking tape to hold the side trim in place. It was pretty easy and it looks great.

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

Looked up on-line the error problem and what part I needed to fix it. Part arrived very quickly and everything was going fine until I realized the stove had two sensors. Replaced the top sensor now I am getting an error on the bottom sensor. Maybe I replaced the wrong one. I will replace the bottom sensor with the one I took out and see if that does the trick. Very very satisfied with PartsSelect. Good Price, Quick Shipping, Would do business with them again. They are now in my favorites so I can find them again if I need parts.

Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.

OMG you have no idea how grateful I am. My husband and I watched your how-to-video and decided that it looked pretty easy for us to replace on our own. We saved close to $200 between the flat fee for a service call plus labor. Thank you very much. We were also pleased how fast our part was shipped to us.

Removed original broiler element, and found it was open. Replaced with new element.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Using 4 strips of duct tape was useful,in holding the glass to the door.

i did fine

I purchased a new infinite control switch 6". and replace the old one.

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.