YMER7765WS3 Maytag Range - Instructions

So glad I found the parts I needed! I followed the GREAT video instructions on this site and when I opened the oven door up discovered there had only been ONE spring inside this whole time! I replaced both springs & hinges easily, cleaned up the glass while I had the door off, and everything went right back into place!

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

took out the drawer by removing two fillips head screws, four more screws removed the drawer front. Two plastic push pins and the front panel was off. Put the new panel on secured it with the pins, attached it back on the drawer front, put in the screws and slid the drawer back in the stove, put the two screws back in, done deal!

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

It took a view months, but well wort waiting for. My Stove is complete again, and I am very happy. Thank you for all your help.

I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Diagnostics:
Turned off power to the range
Removed back panel of range to access the parts
Tested Oven element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Broiler element with ohm meter - passed test
Tested Thermocouple with ohm meter - passed test
Conclusion: Control panel issue
Removed control panel connector that has the 2 wires that complete the circuit to the heating elements
This allows for testing the continuity across the control panel switch without 240 v power to the switch
Turned on power to the range
Pressed start on the oven front control panel
Can hear convection fan runs - passed test
Tested for continuity across the control panel switch - failed
Turned of power to the unit and ordered new control panel
Installation
Removed the 4 multi wire connectors running to the control panel
Removed the two screws holding the control panel in place
Installed new control panel, reconnected the wires and reinstalled the back panel
Repowered the stove and tested the oven and broiler - both heated

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

very easy watched the howto you gave

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.