MGR7662WQ1 Maytag Range - Instructions

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

Removed drawer, after removing the 50# of junk in the drawer, Used screw driver to remove screw that holds glide to drawer and then place new part into place put screw into hole and tightened screw. Replaced drawer and told wife not to put 50# of junk back into the drawer.

This was a very smooth repair. In total it took about 5 minutes. The pot drawer below the oven wasn't gliding like it once did. After I replaced the glides it works like new. Please note, if you are going to replace one side go the next step and replace both to provide balance to the drawer.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

I ordered the exact replacement igniter through the website. I removed the oven bottom plate and the flame spreader to gain access to the igniter/burner assembly. I removed the burner from the oven to access the mounting bolts for the igniter. I replaced the assembly into the oven and reconnected the igniter wire and it was set!

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.

Took the old one out. Put the new one in. Tightened 2 screws. Done.

Open door 1/4 an slide the little latches on each hinge toward you. This will lock them in place. Close the door a little and lift it up. The door will slide out. Lay it face down on a table and undo all the screws. Do not remove the glass, frame etc. Slide old hinge out and new one in being careful not to slide the glass and frame out of alignment. It is a pain to get it all back together if you take every part out. Just do the hinges. Screw it back together. Reverse the door removal process by lowering the hinges into the oven receiver from a 75% closed position. Once in place, open the oven about halfway and slide the locks forward. This will allow the door to close completely. Note: Three hinges came with my set. Not sure what the third odd one is for.

Following details from the installation video, after removing the main gas line and the two output lines I removed the four screws that removed the valve but found it was easier to remove and install the new one if I first removed the oven burner(it made for lining up the valve nozzle to the burner easier) from the inside, 3 wires attach on the side towards the stove taking one wire from the old valve and putting it on the new valve in the same place. Everything went back together just fine, I did have some problem with tightening one of the two gas lines for the output and found I just had to keep tightening it a little until there were no bubbles appearing when I applied soapy water to the connections, other than that it was very straight forward.

Pleaae prepopulate the manufacturer and part i purchased. I fix a lot of appliances so cannot expend the effort to decipher this.

Be well.

Very easy repair, simply remove old ignighter and install new one. Take pictures if you need help remembering where everything goes.