MER8800DE1 Maytag Range - Instructions

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

First, I shut off power to cooktop at breaker and double checked to make sure. Then I disconnected wiring and exhaust duct since the cooktop is a downdraft. After that was completed, I had to remove control knobs simply by pulling straight up. A neighbor helped me to lift the cooktop from the cabinet. After stabilizing the cooktop, I removed the hex nuts holding the glass in place. Then the glass lifted off easily and I could access the bad element. I took pictures of the wiring before disconnecting the wires and installed the new element. Then I reversed the procedure to put the cooktop back in the cabinet, reconnecting the electric and exhaust. I flipped the breaker back on and the element was just like new...because it was!

I first shut off the breaker, then, after pulling the stove away from the wall, I unplugged it. I removed the two screws in the back of the stove which came off easily. I removed the two screws inside the oven and removed the bottom plate. I noticed the heating element I was changing had braces along the bottom. I had to remove the two screws and removed the burnt out element. The new element did not have the braces the original element had, but it fit in perfectly. Then I replaced all the screws, plugged it in and turned on the breaker and it worked. The only thing that we noticed is there’s a clicking sound every time the temperature increases. Not sure what that is.

Watch the video...

after watching the video, installed the temp sensor. Super easy

There is a good video on YouTube that shows exactly how to replace the bake element. Had mine fixed in 15 to 20 minutes. Saved me about $150 by not having to call repairman.

Purchased new switch shut off breaker unscrew the back plate remove front knob and two screws that hold it on remove the two electrical clips from old switch then reinstall in reverse order. Also watched the youtube video before hand, great help!

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Wanted third oven rack. No problem.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

Removed the ifinite controlswitch and replaced it but i dont believe it is wired correctly. now it wont get hot until it is set on four or so. think i the way it is wired.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

First I threw the breaker for the stove to off. I pulled the whole stove out, removed the back cover, removed the knob from the faulty control switch and then unscrewed the two screws holding in the switch. I then pulled the wires from the back of the faulty switch, inserted the wires into the new switch, reattached the two screws that hold the switch in. I threw the breaker back on and turned the burner on long enough to make sure that both dual elements came on and went off like they should. At that point I reattached the back cover and shoved the stove back onto its' slot. All is well and all went well.

Watched the video and realized this was something I could do myself...bear in mind I'm not exactly a handyman! Took me about 30min as the oven also needed some cleaning...my tenant definitely needs to use the self-cleaning!

I have to note, although the heating element was covered by Maytag's 10yr limited parts warranty, I decided to purchase from PartSelect since Maytag could not provide a ship date and I couldn't keep my tenant waiting! Supposedly Maytag had the part in stock but their warehouse was behind because of the pandemic...what a lame excuse! Almost a month later, Maytag has yet to ship the part! Needless to say, am very disappointed in Maytag's after sales and warranty program! I get the impression, they just wanted to pressure me to buy the new part!

Lastly, was very pleased and impressed by PartSelect's customer service! Their website was very easy to use, less expensive than buying direct from Maytag and the part was shipped same day! Thank you PartSelect!