MES5752BAB16 Maytag Range - Instructions

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.

Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.

Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.

Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.

Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

SHUT OFF POWER AT BREAKER BOX! Remove oven door, use nut driver to remove two screws holding old element to back of oven. Pull forward to get wires into oven, remove wire clips from old part and re-attach to new element using pliers. Re-attach to back of oven, replace door. Turn on power and heat oven to burn off coating on new element. Not at all difficult, except for wire clips are at angle to wire, making re-attachment a bit difficult to do. DO NOT LOSE WIRES INTO BACK AS THEY WOULD BE VERY DIFFICULT TO RESCUE IN A JENN-AIR SLIDE IN UNIT LIKE OURS.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

removed several screws, removed old controller, installed new controller buttoned back up works perfect

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

After the repair I determined that the door did not need to be removed from the stove. The top 3 screws needed to be taken out, the front clase needed to be slid out by pushing it right to left or left to right. Then the bracket that held the inside screw assembly needed to be removed. The new handle needed to be installed and the bracets put back into place. The front glass needed to be reinstalled right to left or left to right. The hardest part of my install was putting door back on the range, the hinges kept popping out of place before setting into the range. The best way to replace the hangle would be to not remove the door from the range.

For the Ikea Range isg650ws01, the repair was very easy.

Step 1) Slide the range away from the wall slowly, verifying occasionally to not strain the gas or electric lines

Step 2) Unplug the range

Step 3) There are 2 phillips heads screws holding the rear panel in place. Remove the two screws and remove the panel.

Step 4) The cooling fan is held in place with 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the electrical cord

Step 5) install the new cooling fan. The electrical plug can only be inserted one direction, so there shouldn't be a concern that you have the plug installed correctly. Match the original orientation of the fan in the unit. Re-install the 2 screws for the fan, and then install the rear cover. There are 2 slots that the panel needs to slide into in the bottom. Finish the install by installing the 2 screws you removed in to hold the rear panel. Plug the range back in and heat to 450°F to validate the repair.

Removed the original rack. Checked dimensions, installed the new rack.