MERB750BAW10 Maytag Range - Instructions

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

Removed two screws, removed broken heating element, plugged in new element and put two screws back.

1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area.
2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element.
3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven.
4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.)
5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws.
6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven.
7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven.
8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

All I did was to unscrew the screws, pull out element, pull off the clips, discard the old element, attach the new one, put it back in the hole, and reattach the screws. Very easy to do!!!! Saved me a lot of money, didn’t have to call a service person!!!!!!

I've been trying to remove the bracket at the roof of upper oven so I can get to the broiler element itself. The screws are in place so tight, the won't move. I've used regular as well as ratchet screwdrivers and the screws still won't move. I don't want to spray WD 40 in oven because of a possible fire hazard, so I haven't changed out element yet. Tried calling customer service for advise, but to no avail. All other screws loosen easily. What should I do next.

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.