MERH865RAW1 Maytag Range - Instructions

I looked how it came out pretty easy, check how your connections are on the unitase you unplug them. Ordered new part from patrs select. the new came in. Make sure you look at the location on the problem part of the tabs on back because it is important on the reinstall of the element ( it is easy it is numbered like a clock) plug in the wires and your ready to go.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

1 Turn the circuit breaker that feds power to the range/stove off
2 Opened the oven door and found two screws that hold the top part of the range. I removed the screws and disconnected the green cable (ground) so I could have access to the Element-surt
3 Disconnected the four wires that connects the Element and removed the braket that holds it.
4 Replaced the new element, connected the wires and attached the braket.
5 Connected the ground (green cable) and place the top back on place (screwed the top from inside the oven).
6 turned the power on

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

Remove two screws on front of range top. they are exposed when you open the oven door. lift and pull back top. unplug two molex connectors, need to squeeze the plastic sides. remove top range to floor. remove six screws and take glass top off metal frame. element is held in with some simple clips and three push on connectors must be removed. replace with new element and assemble in reverse order.

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

easy to put in

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

replaced glass....fairly easy to install.

First I turned off the breaker for the oven. Next I pulled the oven out so I could access the back of the oven. Then I removed the back of the oven so that the connections for the heating element were exposed. I disconnected the wires from the element and then went back to the front of the oven. I removed the plate over the heating element (2 screws in the back) and then removed the screws that were holding the element in place. I pulled out the heating element and then put the new one in. Finally I hooked up the element to the electrical supply and then put everything back together. Don't forget to turn the breaker back on!

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )