MER8670AW0 Maytag Range - Instructions

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).

Opened the breaker for the oven. Verified the power was off. Removed the racks from the oven. Using a screw driver removed two screws in the back of the oven holding down the steam bake bottom of the oven, pulled up from the back to get the pan out. Removed the screw holding the front of the element in place. Removed the screw in the shiny metal of the element at the back. Gingerly pulled the element to the front and as the element stopped slightly turned the element to let the prints come out. That part was challenging to get the angle right so not to damage the wires. Using a small Phillips screw driver I pushed in on the connector latch on the terminal and then pulled the terminals off the element one at a time. Follow all the steps in reverse to install the new one.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks

Unplug the appliance, remove the bottom cover inside the range and the cover in the rear to unplug the heating element. R&r the element, reinstall the covers and test for proper operation.

Ordered a new switch and replaced the old one with it.

1) unplugged rnage from wall
2) took off back plate to unhook electrical from element
3)took door off of range for ease of access
4) removed the 2 screws i the back of tha bottom panel
5) removed 1 screw in front and 1 screw in back to be able to remove old element.
6)remove element and replace with new one.
7) reinstalled both screws and the bottom panle.
8) connected electrical to new element
9) replaced back cover and plugged in unit to wall
10) put range back in place.

Took out the bottom tray and the back cover panel, unplugged the old element and plugged the new one in and reassembled

Took off top and pulled out old element and plugged in the new one

Removed rear panel disconnect power from wall removed old switch and replaced with new switch and reassembled

Shut off breaker. Remove a total of 3 screws attach wires, replace screws, turn breaker on. Done!

I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.

The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.

Again thanks for the help.

I pulled the range out from the wall, then unplugged it from the wall outlet. I removed the oven door & set it aside. Removed the screws covering the rear wiring shield, then disconnected the 2 leads from the bake element. Unscrewed the screws holding the oven floor pan, then unscrewed the screws holding in the original element. Replaced it, screwed everything back together, and pushed the oven back against the wall. Took me about 30 minutes, and now the oven works as well as it did when we first bought it.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model