MGR5775QDB1 Maytag Range - Instructions

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

I viewed the YTube Video that showed exactly how to remove the door and all the other parts for replacement. Excellent video shows and explains how to remove, replace, and re-attach the handle and the door.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP,
PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT
OFF)
2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE
DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A
TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS.
3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE
PERIMETER OF THE DOOR..
4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND
BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM
THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE
FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL.
5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER
AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO
ATTACHING BRACKETS.
6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM
THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW
HANDLE.
7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED
8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY
9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER.
( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR
GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}

Replace the igniter. Removed 2 rear screws that secure bottom oven pan. Removed pan. Ignigter is located in center rear by 2 screws. Removed the screws and pulled ignigter out from rear. There us a prong connection that when pressed will release igniter. Don't touch new ignigter without gloves on. Will reduce life. Plugged in new ignigter and secured w 2 screws. Turned on oven to ensure problem was fixed. After 30 seconds, oven ignited. Replaced bottom oven pan. Tadaa!

moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

it was actually pretty easy, it took about 20 minutes to fix, i had to unscrew the bottom portion of the oven to get to the Igniter on the bottom, then unscrew the Igniter, take off the old pice, and snap the new one in, put it all back together, and that was about it, i had dinner done by the time my husband got home from work. thanks

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

I removed the cover plates on the back of the range since I didn't know where the m1/m2 module was located. I traced the wiring back to the clock and timer module in the console. I ordered the replacement part and it came the next day by FedEx. I replaced the failed part and every thing works except the oven. I have to get a meter to find out if I have voltage at the oven gas valve or if the part 74009227 is faulty.

took out racks removed 2 screws holding igniter removed 4 screws on back of stove and unplug igniter. reversed the order installing the new one

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

First i turned off the gas and unpluged the electric to the stove. I removed the gas line and the screws that held the housing of the hood and valve assembly .Then i unplug 4 wires that operated the safety valveon the gas.Unthreaded 2 lines ,one for the oven and the other one for the boiler.I then replace the new hood and valve kit and put everything back together and the oven works just fine.

It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.