MGR8800FB0 Maytag Range - Instructions

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.

Opened oven... removed grates and bottom panel. Unbolted igniter has flange and end wire. Attached end wire to new igniter and reattached new igniter to gas flange. The rest in reverse and set oven and pressed start.

Took 2 screws holding vent trim to door removed 2 screws holding handle to vent trim, put handle on new vent trim put vent trim back on door

I first shut off gas to stove and unplugged the stove. I then opened the oven door and used a phillips screw driver to remove the three screws under the cover plate that sits behind the gas control knobs . I then removed the cover plate. I then took off the grates on stove top and proceeded to remove the two screws on each burner head with a phililps screwdriver. Some where tight so I used a drill driver on low speed to turn the screws out. After removing the burner heads I had to remove two screws on each corner in the front under the cook top of the stove to remove the cook top off the stove. But before that I had to release the two wires from a clip under the cook top for the ignitor switches before I could lift the cook top off the stove. These should be on the right hand side. Now I had access to remove the burner valve that had the broken stem that the knob is attached too. For this I used adjustable wrench to remove the nut for the gas tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve. Then I had to release the ignitor switch by pulling it off the control valve stem or gently pry it off with a flat head screw driver. Then used 1/4 in socket wrench to remove the top bolt to release the old burner valve off the gas plenum where all the burner valves are attached too. Then pull the old control valve off from underneath the gas plenum. Then i put in the new burner valve making sure it had a rubber seal around it where it goes up through the hole underneath the gas plenum. Then while holding control valve in place put the screw back in the top of the gas plenum through the other hole on top of the gas plenum and screw it in the burner valve making sure it also has a seal under the bottom of head of the bolt that you are screwing in to the control valve. This is so that no gas can leak from the plenum where the control valve is attached to. The control valve threads should be lined up with the bolt since both holes on the bottom and top of the gas rail (plenum) are lined up Use a 1/4 in socket to tighten down the bolt with the seal but don't over tighten. Then reattach the tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve with adjustable wrench and make sure not to over tighten. Then grab the stove cook top that you took off and replace it back on top of stove.After in place make sure to put those two wires back into clip that is under the cook top so wires are not touching the oven. You have to put part of your arm under the cook top and use your hand to try to push the wires back into the clip that's under the stove top. These wires will be on the right hand side. This is kinds tricky to do. Then tighten cook top back down with two screws and reattach the ignitor switch back through the valve stem of new control valve . It should clip in around the valve stem. Then reattach the cover plate over the valves stems with the remaining three screws and attach the control knobs.

Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Wanted third oven rack. No problem.

The LP Conversion kit for the 5 surface burners that was supplied with the range are wrong. The oven and broiler orifice jets that came with the range were correct. Order the 5 surface jets to complete your LP conversion.

Pop old one out and new one in

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.