MGR8875WW1 Maytag Range - Instructions

My stove would take forever to preheat and sometimes it wouldn't heat above 175. I order a new igniter, which was located under the drip pan . It took less then ten mins to replace and the stove is working like new.

We hired the neighborhood handy man, and he was able to repair the oven in about 15 minutes. I order the part and received it the next day. Excellent Service!!

I opend the bottom cover, which had for screws then , opened 2 screws that atached the igniter to the main gas pipe and pulled the whole wiring out and disconected the wiring , ordered the igniter two days later, I put the whole thing together in less than 5 minutes . put back the cover. and I tried it , everything was cool , accutaly hot and working .

part was purchased as spare because when the ignitor goes bad no warning is given it just fails.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

Tested power coming into unit,then tested power going to igniter,both of which were good.Did a continuity check of igniter element and found it to be bad.Ordered one from PartSelect,recieved it in minimum time,removed the old one,installed the new one,works like a champ.

After reading how others replaced their defective Gas Oven Igniter, I decided to attempt the project. My only mistake was Removing the Oven Door. Though it came off with ease, it was a complete bear to put back on.
Once I removed the oven door, I located the two phillips head screws that held the bottom oven floor in place. One screw came off without much effort, however the other stripped and had to be drilled out.
After removing the oven floor plate, I quickly located the Igniter and using a nut driver, unscrewed it. One of the two screws stripped on me and had to be replaced. The new part was put in position and the process was reversed. This is where I encounted a problem.
After repeated attempts, I soon found that the oven door hindges had to be held in the open position with a flat head screwdriver in order to be put in place. I found no instructions or info on how to complete this process (even from Maytag) and only completed the tast by trial and error. I highly suggest NOT REMOVING THE OVEN DOOR to complete the repair. The repair itself is rather simple even with stripped screws.

This website easily diagnosed the probable problem. We ordered the suggested part and my husband replaced it, despite a slightly eroded, rusted screw that was stubborn to remove, in about 20 minutes. The oven is working perfectly. With tax we spent about 50 bucks. I was sure we needed a new oven. We, ironically, celebrated by going out to dinner!

removed the old defective ingniter and installed new igniter turned on the ove n and wala, it was like brand new.

He took out the bottom of the oven floor...came out easy ..had to unplug the old part and installed the new one the same way.He did have to unscrew two pieces. The only difficult part was reaching to plug in. Not too bad. Now he could do it quick and easier. Problably 10 minutes the most. Stove works great and I can cook again. Makes me happy.Thanks for all your help.

I started with pulling the base of the oven to examine the mechanism underneath. The hardest part of the whole thing was working the wire connection past the metal back of the oven. It required prying the metal away from the frame rail and wedging the wire connection through. Other than that it was unplugging the old, plugging in the new, and a few screws to reattach the igniter, heat sheilds, and oven base.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.

Checked troubleshooting guide on website / ordered part / replaced part by removing two screws in oven on bottom pan/ removed inside oven bottom for easiy access/ removed two screws from bracket holding down the heating element/separated the electrical plug in back releasing the wires to heating element/ installed the new element with two screws / connected the electrical plug/ installed the bottom panel inside oven / installed two screws inside oven on bottom panel. Checked operation of unit- gas lit ok - pushbutton panel did not increase heat seting properly/ dismantled the control panel / dismanteled the circuit board / found remains of several roaches inside circuit board recess/ cleaned all pushbutton points and re-assembled unit - all worked fine except when oven burner went off - the gas valve would not shut off completely - leaving a small flame burning at the gaaas valve orifice "DANGEROUS". I checked troubleshooting guide again / ordered a new valve - installed - (did not come with a new Propane orifice ) - had to use old one ( should have either asked me or just sent one when I ordered) - received new valve - installed with old Propane orifice - all works well now.