MGR8772WW1 Maytag Range - Instructions

I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.

Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!

I unscrewed the ignitor from the gas supply. Unplugged the ignitor. Plugged the new ignitor in and screwed it back in place to the gas supply. It could not have been easier!

I first matched the symptom (very long preheat time/gas odor) with the most likely problem (faulty oven gas igniter). I then wrote the model # and Googled gas oven repair and got to your website. I then located the faulty part within about 5 clicks and proceeded to order the exact part within another 5 or so clicks. I received my order from PartSelest in 2 days and had the oven working with the new igniter in about 10 minutes....Then it dawned on me---"Hey, I should be a Maytag Repair Man."
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Replace the igniter. Removed 2 rear screws that secure bottom oven pan. Removed pan. Ignigter is located in center rear by 2 screws. Removed the screws and pulled ignigter out from rear. There us a prong connection that when pressed will release igniter. Don't touch new ignigter without gloves on. Will reduce life. Plugged in new ignigter and secured w 2 screws. Turned on oven to ensure problem was fixed. After 30 seconds, oven ignited. Replaced bottom oven pan. Tadaa!

it was actually pretty easy, it took about 20 minutes to fix, i had to unscrew the bottom portion of the oven to get to the Igniter on the bottom, then unscrew the Igniter, take off the old pice, and snap the new one in, put it all back together, and that was about it, i had dinner done by the time my husband got home from work. thanks

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

took out racks removed 2 screws holding igniter removed 4 screws on back of stove and unplug igniter. reversed the order installing the new one

Took the bottom out of oven then removed and replaced with the new part. VERY EASY! I'm a 70-year-old woman and do quite a few home repairs myself.

It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.