MGR8772WB0 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the lower base pan of the oven by unscrewing two phillips head screws. I then had access to the old igniter and removed that by removing the mounting screws (2 Phillips head screws). Continuity test revealed an open circuit. I simply replaced the old part with the new part, reversed the process and the oven was ready for use in less than 10 minutes.

Installing new igniter was very easy. The problem I had was removing the screws. The range is 18 yrs old. The screws were stuck from yrs of use. Especially in the oven cover plate. I used w- d 40 it didn't work. I decided to take a 2" putty knife and push it under the screw head to release it and it worked. They came right out. The igniter screws were also difficult to get out. Once those were removed, I pulled the stove out, turned off the gas and the electrical plug, removed back plate unplugged the old igniter and connected the new one. Easy, peasy. Turned gas on etc. Tested the oven to be sure it worked. Turned oven off.Then put it all back the way it was. Done! The igniter install was simple and qiuck. The time problem was the screws.

Oven and broiler have two seperate igniters. Broiler worked but oven did not heat. Oven igniter located under metal pan at base of inside of oven. remove pan by lifting, and remove completely from oven. Igniter under this pan and held in place by two srews. Remove screws, unplug from cable, replug in ne igniter, replace two srcews and pan, and you're done! this part cost about $50 and I installed, last time Sear replaced =$300.

First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.

removed inside bottom of oven, removed 2 screws that held the ignighter, pulled out the oven, removed one screw on small cover, unpluged old ignighter, removed old ignighter, pusned the wires through the back of the oven, plugged ity in, attached the nerw ignighter, and replaced the cover/ and the bottom of the oven.
i teted the oven before i closed everything to insure it would light.

Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

Check and see if power is going to the ignitor. Do an amp draw test on the ignitor. The gas valve will not open if it won't draw the right amount of current. Sometimes it will glow but wont be pulling the right amount of juice. In my case it wasn't even glowing but it still looked okay. The mounting screws can break or strip upon removal if they are old. In my case I had to drill a hole, for a new screw, on the back one, and the front one tried to strip out. I might try a little heat next time before removing them. If no power is going to the ignitor when you turn on the oven it might be that the board has gone bad. The ignitor should draw close to 3 amps.

same as taking out old part and i misdiagnosed the problem ordered wrong part first and parts select steered me ito the correct part thank you

There are two elements to look at, one on top (broil) and one on the bottom (bake). Same element but may have different connectors. Double check before ordering.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

Simple... unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the electrical connection to uninstall and just the opposite to install.

one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.