MGR8772WB1 Maytag Range - Instructions

Diagnosed the issue by removing the bottom panel of the oven. (two little screws) Once the panel was out I turned the oven on with the door open to see what was happening.

Noticed that the heating element wasn't lighting up in order for the gas to ignite. Unplugged the oven and removed the heating element. Two screws hold the heating element in place. Removed those. Then, there is a panel on the back of the oven with one screw to remove. Once panel is removed you have easy access to the heating element connecting electric plug. Disconnect this plug by simply pulling apart.

Then, I was able to go back to the inside of the oven and slowly pull the heating element with plug out. The heating element had the part number on it. My oven is a Maytag which, is made by Whirlpool.

Went online to Whirlpool PartSelect and ordered my part. The part came in two days. Installed my new part and plugged in my oven to test the part. Part worked perfectly. Unplugged the oven and finished the installation process.

Ordered the broiler igniter that matched my model from part select and installed. Easy and part works as it should. Only took a few days to get here and saved me $40 by not purchasing at a local parts store as well. Will use part select if there are any future needs.

Put the back of stove on blocks of wood to get high enough to screw the new leg in.

Received the burner cap, placed on the burner to complete the installation.

Simple... unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the electrical connection to uninstall and just the opposite to install.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

one screw holds the cover to the connector. one screw for the burner tube to the oven frame. two screws hold the ignitor bracket/assembly to the burner tube. that's it. take four screws off and disconnect. connect and put four screws back on.

Unplugged the Rang. Removed the oven door. Removed the lower cover for the Bottom heater. Removed the two screws that held the igniter to the burner. Went to back of oven to disconnect the igniter. removed the old igniter. Installed the new Igniter in the reverse order.

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.

Remove door
Remove front cover of door
Remove hinge screws
Put back together.

My Husband did the repair in less than an hour. He followed the way it was put together removed it the same way and replaced the whole unit very easily.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

Check and see if power is going to the ignitor. Do an amp draw test on the ignitor. The gas valve will not open if it won't draw the right amount of current. Sometimes it will glow but wont be pulling the right amount of juice. In my case it wasn't even glowing but it still looked okay. The mounting screws can break or strip upon removal if they are old. In my case I had to drill a hole, for a new screw, on the back one, and the front one tried to strip out. I might try a little heat next time before removing them. If no power is going to the ignitor when you turn on the oven it might be that the board has gone bad. The ignitor should draw close to 3 amps.

The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.