MER6755AAW25 Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed two retaining screws and pulled out coil. one terminal came off readily but one remained and was difficult to get off. Pulled range out from wall and removed cover plate and removed existing terminal connection. Pushed new coil into oven openings and screwed in. Slide terminals on in the rear of range and replaced cover plate. Took about 1/2 hour because I was nervous.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

• Removed the oven door (pulled right off old hinges)
• Removed two screws
• Removed broken hinge
• Placed new hinge in place
• Replaced screws
• Replaced oven door.

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Two Screws on the back. Pull out heating element and remove wires. Install new wires and replace screws. Done in 5 minutes

This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.

Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.

Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.

Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.

Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done