MER6751AAB23 Maytag Range - Instructions

once I figured out how to remove door it was a piece of cake for a 72 year old man.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Took out 2 screws along the underside of the glass top. Unhooked the glass top from the back of the range lifted it up and supported it with a board. Removed 2 screws holding the old burner in place and lowered it down onto the insulation on top of the oven. Removed the wires and reattached them in order to the new burner. Removed the screws holding the brackets to the old burner and attached them in the same places on the new burner. Reattached the burner to the bottom of the glass top the placed the glass top back in its proper position and put the 2 screws back in holding it in place. Plugged in the range and tested the burner to make sure it worked. Then slid the range back into position. All done in about 30 mins. Not very difficult at all.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I shut off the breaker to the stove. I removed 2 screws from the underside of the cooktop at the front of the unit. I raised the cooktop and had my helper hold the top at an angle to access the burner. I removed 2 screws attached to the burner and then loosened the 2 clips and moved them to release the burner. I transferred the electrical connections from the old to the new. Reinstalled the burner and cooktop. Turned the breaker on, tested the new burner and I was fone

IMPORTANT NOTE: This element is shaped like a B. The straight line part of the B, which is closest to the back part of the oven, doesn't light up. At first I thought it was a defective part. My husband is the cook and I never realized this. This fact isn't indicated in the instruction booklet which came with the oven. My sister has the same oven and she didn't realize it doesn't light up either. I looked up installation instructions on You Tube and although I was very nervous, it was easy to install. It's a little awkward because the wires are in the back of the oven so have a flashlight handy.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Bought new hinges as that was the obvious problem.
Below is the removal, installation process for new hinges. Turns out in my case there was nothing wrong with the hinges. Problem was still there after installing new ones. I found that the metal in the door that butted against the hinges was fatigued causing looseness. I ended up compressing the metal back into shape with a hammer. Problem solved but money wasted on hinges.
If you replace hinges. Here is what I did.
1. Open door slightly to where it stops in broiler position.
2. Remove the door by pulling up.
3. Remove two screws in front of hinges that hold them in.
4. Pull range out a few inches for access the remove the side fillers that trim out the stove.
5. Reach in from the side and work hinges out.
5. Pop in new hinges and reattach the 2 front holding screws and the side trim screws.
You are done.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Husband took old one out and put new one in. Did not have to pull stove out. Be sure and disconnect the power at the electric box. Only 2 screws holding the element in. Easy fix, just wish they would last longer.

unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all

Two Screws on the back. Pull out heating element and remove wires. Install new wires and replace screws. Done in 5 minutes

I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.