MER5752BAQ15 Maytag Range - Instructions

Power turned off. Door of the oven lifted off. Four screws removed, old element pulled out to reveal electrical connectors. Wires easily removed, and element discarded. New element connected to the two conductors, four screws installed and the job was completed.
Very easy. Took about 10 minutes.

I took the back panel off, removed the old lens, installed the new lens. How easy to order from home, receive the part, do the repair and pay less than it costs to simply drive to the parts house. Cool....

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Pull out the range...hardest part.
Remove back panel.
Remove/install switch
PS,
This is second switch I had to replace. Try making them in the United States.

I removed all the screws that held the trim and inner frame to the outside window unit first. Then, I removed a protective glass from over the two inner panes. Next after removing the frame that held the two inner glass panes together, I took the broken inner glass pane out and replaced it with the new one. Then basically I just retraced my steps and had the door put back together in about 45 minutes. You just need to pay close attention to your disassembly so that you are able to put the pieces back together quickly.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

This range was easy. Only 4 screws under the front panel that allows the panel to come off. No need to pull the range out for back screws.

Replacement part was exact and worked perfect.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the range.

Remove the 4 screws under the front panel, one on each end and one one each side of the display/control panel.

Pull the bottom of the front panel out about 30 degrees and lift off the top.

Once panel is off pull of the dial knob, remove the two screws for the control and swap wires on at a time with the new one.. Reverse the procedure and all is good. You may need to use needle nosed pliers on the spade connectors if they are too tight to pull off by hand.

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

The job itself isn't hard--just unscrew all the trim pieces holding the door together, remove the broken handle, and put in the new handle. There's nothing technical about it. The main thing is keeping track of the order that you take off various trim pieces and keeping the screws together with each piece. Because all the parts overlap in one way or another, you need them to go on in the right (reverse) order when you reassemble the door. Also, the job is MUCH easier to do if you take the door off the oven. I didn't at first see how to do that, and disassembled the door in place, which meant crawling around on the floor to reach the bottom pieces. But then I realized that the door simply lifts off of the two hinged arms at the bottom, and so I reassembled it with the door resting on the stove top. Much easier! You need to do a bit of wiggling to find the right motion to lift the door off, but once you do it comes off easily. Be aware that it's pretty heavy and you may want a second person to help. Putting it back on again can be a little tricky, because the hinges move; as soon as you get one side lined up, the other one wants to move away. But a little patience will get the job done.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.