MER5752ACB Maytag Range - Instructions

Remove top oven door,remove two hex head screws located underneath cook top at the front on both sides,slid the range top forward approx. three(3) inches to obtain access needed to unplug the wiring harness, located behind the vertical part of the cook top,removed the cook top,placing it on a padded table with the glass side down,disconnected the three (3)wire spades and unscrewed three screws anchoring heating element to the cook top frame, replaced defective heating assembly with new. Repeated above steps noted above,in reverse order. And yes, all work was done after power was shut off at power panels dedicated oven circuit.

First, I turned the circuit breaker off to the range. Then, I pulled the range out so that I could get to the screws which held the glass top in place. They were located on the sides of the range. I had to remove the trim pieces on the sides to get to the forward screws. Once that was done, I lifted the glass top, unplugged the wire harness, flpped it over on a protected surface. I noted the numbers on the old coil where the clips held it in place and put the clips on the new coil in the same place. The old wires just clipped on to the new coil exactly as they clipped on to the old coil. I put it all back together and it works great! I am a 70 year old woman who did this all by myself. You young guys should have no problem.

It's easier with two people.
1 - Turn the breaker for the range to OFF
2 - Verify power is off by testing the burners and lights
3 - Remove front two screws above oven door jamb
4 - Lift the top and prop it up with the spoon, or have your helper hold it.
5 - Loosen the screw at the rear of the bracket that holds the elements against the glass top (front and rear are held by the same retainer)
6 - Remove the bad element by sliding it sideways from the retainer. Do not disconnect things yet.
7 - The burner has numbers around the edge. Move brackets from old element to new one, matching the numbers. Then move wiring to new element. New burner may have a single connector where old one had 2 and a jumper. If so, ignore jumper.
8 - Slide new element under bracket and reinstall the screw.
9 - Lower the range top and re-install the screws.
10 - Turn on power and test.

OMG you have no idea how grateful I am. My husband and I watched your how-to-video and decided that it looked pretty easy for us to replace on our own. We saved close to $200 between the flat fee for a service call plus labor. Thank you very much. We were also pleased how fast our part was shipped to us.

Ordered a front burner but it was not the right size. Ordered a switch after local dealer said I had a bad switch. Ordered a switch from Parts Select and received it the next day. Works good now.

Disconnect the range from wall outlet. remove 2 screws in the back of the cabinet,remove switch plug. connect back range to outlet to check if it is the switch. make sure the light isn't on. then I order the switch online at PartSelect.com and it arrived in 2 days. When I installed the piece, the problem had been solved. I hope this information will be helpful for others.

Shut off 220 volt power to range. Removed two screws for cooktop element access. Used needle-nose pliers to remove power (2) and control (2) lugs and wires. Remove defective cooking element module, replaced. Reverse steps for new unit.

I unplugged the stove and removed two screws on bottom of stove top (above oven door) one screw holding burner bracket in place. Took one wire off at a time and hooked to new burner, tightened all screws back down.

Turn off power 220v, opened cook top, remove old 8" switch and replace with one of the new switch ps2089438. However, I have another cook top, it is a 6" heating element. Can I use the same switch for 8" and use on a 6" heating element? Since I order 2 new ps2089438 switches. Thank you for your anwser. Kahn lee

Pulled stove out to unplug. Removed screws holding end covers then remove screws on the underside of cover as you face the stove top.Remove knobs.Pull bottom cover forward and up so you can lift it off to see the insides.Remove wires and attach to the new part one at a time. Unscrew old from the front and attach the new one.Put it back together.Done.

Looked in manual. Ordered part. Replaced it. It was easier then expected.

Frankly I really don't know how to open the top. The "stupid" manual does not explain how to change the surface limiter at all, and I have no clue at all. Luckily for me, the salesperson at the store gave me a hint: just ask anything on Google, there are plenty of videos on how to do, and it did. I am so thankfully to Google, it makes my life so easy.

killed power...removed back of stove...removed switch and replaced it..reinstalled back...powered up

Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.

I ordered both the light bulb and the switch that controls it. I had not pulled the stove out because the ones I bought this house from did not level the floor which meant I had to wait on a socket set to arrive in order to be able to pull my stove away from the wall. Once I got the socket set and the stove out I removed the panel on the back. I saw then that my red light bulb had shattered in half forcing the switch to just hang free. Glad I had ordered both parts, removed the old, replaced new with ease... then it was a matter of sliding the panel back in place without the main control panel getting misaligned, few trial and error checks and it went back with ease. New light works! Very easy.. probably less time if your floor is level.. then I had to play with the little legs to get it even again. For now it is ok until the spring where I go to redo the floor and make it all LEVEL! Very easy! Hope it doesn't burn out again but if it does I know what to do! Maytag rep wanted to charge me $100... No thanks!