MER5755QAQ Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.

First things first...Unplug the unit...Then remove the center plate from the back of the oven (one screw) and take clips off element. Then on the inside, there are 2 screws near the back on the bottom panel. These were rusted on pretty good, so that's where the vice grips came into play. The entire job would've gone much faster, if I wasn't fighting with these 2 screws...After you remove the screws, tilt up bottom panel and remove. Then you just remove 1 rear screw & 2 bottom screws and slide out the old element. Slide the new one in, secure it with the screws and screw the bottom panel back into place. Go to the rear of the oven, slide the 2 clips on the element and screw rear plate back on. Plug the oven back in and that's it...

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

Unplug appliance, unscrew small cover plate in rear. Disconnect wires from old element, may need to use needle nose pliers to wiggle clips off. Open oven door, remove false bottom to expose baking element. Remove baking element. Install new element, connect wires from rear, and replace covers and false bottom. Plug in appliance and test.

Removed 3 Phillips head screws at top of oven door. Tipped this top casing back just enough to remove glass door panel. Removed door mounting brackets from door (phillips). Removed end of handle from attached end of frame piece. New handle screw stubs changed from original to need self tapping screws (with washers), so had to find appropriate screws on my own (screws sent to me for new handle were straight machine screws as needed with original, broken handle). Found self tapping screws and washers, screwed new handle to brackets, screwed brackets to door panel, loosely screwed 3 top frame screws, tipped top frame back enough to reinstall glass door front, screwed down 3 top frame screws and it was done.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

removed bottom pan cover. removed broken element. replaced with new one.. simple. would buy from this place again. shipped super fast

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!