MER6741BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Turned off breaker to oven, removed racks, unscrewed the plate holding the element in place, and pulled out the wires a few inches. All easy and fine to this point. Never having done anything like this before, I wasn't sure HOW the element was attached to the wires, so tugged on them a bit, but nothing budged. Got a flashlight (it got dark in there with the upper part of my body in there)looked again, but still couldn't tell. Referred to this site and saw reports of "plug and play", went back and examined the ends more closely on old and new element, realized that they slide straight on and straight off in a "sleeve". Got some pliars and pulled the ends apart. Slid the new end on to one wire, but couldn't get the other one on until I realized I had crushed it a bit with the pliars. Reopened the "sleeve" with a vegetable knife and slid the other end of the element into the "sleeve" at the end of the wire. Then pushed the wires back in and screwed plate on. It took about 23 minutes, and that included time to look up this site and do some reading, jump up to find a flashlight, and jump up and find a pair of pliars. My hubby was out of town for 3 weeks and suggested I wait til he got home--glad I didn't wait.

I had the old oven rack in the oven when I cleaned it. The rack came out brown and would not slide easily. The new rack was exactly the right one and now all is back to perfect!

Remove outer panel first, outer glass and handle come off as one piece. Be carefull to secure as last screws are removed. Remove inner silver panel. Remove broken glass and replace with new. Reaassemble. Around 10 Phillips head screws altogether. Much easier than I thought

Very easy repair, the way it was packed/shipped I took
the packing put around old top to keep in one peice. Two screws in front, lift top off. 8 screws to remove burners.
reverse order to put back together simple.

Shipped on timely manner,I will order again from Part Select, installing was a 15 minute job, that what I did, 1 unplugged stove, 2) removed 4 screws, (2 on top bracket and 2 on back) , 3) slide unit out couple inches enough to disconnected the wires from each end of unit and removed old part, installed new unit by reconnecting end wires, pushing unit slowly toward back of oven until wires find it's right position, set it back in place with the 2 screws on top bracket and 2 screws on back, done!!

I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed how easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!

Ordered new handle removed door from oven by pulling up and out. Removed approximately 5 screws on bottom 2 screws each on sides. Removed side pieces. Removed front glass. Removed old door handle. Had to tap the new door screw holes to accept a 10 X 3/4" Sheet Metal screw. Installed new handle and replaced the oven glass and side pieces. Slide the door back onto oven door brackets.

Pull range out 6 inches. Open door to 45 degrees and pull up to remove door. Remove both side plates, two screws each side. Remove both hinges by loosening two small bolts on the front of range that connect to the hinges. Place new hinges in place. Bolt hinges using bolts you removed, replace side panels. Slide door on hinges and push back range.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

PULLED THE POWER CORD!! Loosened a couple of screws holding the element to the rear oven wall, removed the electrical wires (red on left, yellow on right) attached to the baking element, removed old element, inserted new element and reattached the wires respectively thereto. One minor glitch did occur. The RED wire inadvertently slipped back through the hole into the insulation and was not retrievable. I removed the small metal plate housing the wires on the back bottom of the stove, pushed the red wire (plentiful length) back into the oven, reinstalled the plate, connected the red wire to the bake element, reconnected the power, element began to heat. Mission accomplished. One caution: Pay attention to the SHAPE of the failed element before ordering online or buying in person.

I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.

Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.

the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition.

To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.

Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.

After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.

Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!

See description listed as problem

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

We removed the rear panel, then removed the stove top, then removed the sides. We undid the straps that hold the insulation in place. Pulled out the old insulation and put in the new. Replaced every thing we took off. The nastiest thing was the old insulation full of mouse droppings and even a few dead mice.