CUE840 Maytag Range - Instructions

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

I changed out the infinite switch without any problems. The indicator light was another problem. It wasn't the light that was bad, it was the indicator light lens that snaps into the panel. The light then attaches to the lense. The lense broke and the indicator light pulled away with the tension on the wires. Now I have to order replacement lens and will have a spare indicator light.

I took out the side of the cooktop that did not work. I had to take off the bottom of the cooktop and checked where electricity was going and not going. Once I found the part that needed replacing, I went on the website, search for Jen-Air cooktops and model number. From the sketch on the website, I was able to order the part needed. I decided to get 2 in order to replace both parts at one time, just in case. The part arrived quickly and was easy to install. The most time I spent was taking the backside off the cooktop and cleaning it.

We made the mistake of taking the door apart before we received the replacement parts. After waiting several days, which was fine, the parts arrived. Then we had to figure out how it went back together. My wife and I did it and enjoyed working on it. However....after getting it partly reassembled, we (I) found four extra screws. We took it apart again and then put it back together. Turning the door over we found that the glass assembly had slipped. This meant that we had to take it apart again. This went on two more times LOL. Then the gasket gave us a couple of small fits as well. All in all it was a neat experience. I do suggest, unless you are experienced in appliance repair, to NOT disassemble the door until the parts arrive.

The comments from others on the website were a great help.

Thank you.

I have bought several drip bowls over the years. They all seemed to not fit just right. These are perfect! Thanks!

Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.

The contact spades were burned from 10+ years of use and the cook top module was worn. I disassembled the module, taped the top to protect the creamic cook top, sanded the metal and spray painted to restore the original white finish. On the bottom half I replaced one missing pop rivet and cleaned and spray painted the bottom to restore to the original black. When the contact spades arrived, I replaced the contact spades and reassembled the module. It now works and looks like it did when it was new.

I enlarged the vent access hole from four (4) inches to five (5) inches to accomodate a larger pipe. I then purchased locally a 5" to 4" transition and installed it in the enlarged opening, and sealed the space with expanding foam for a bug-proof air-tight fit. On the inside of the house I attached a short length of 4" pipe to attach the dryer vent pipe. On the outside, in the place of the aluminum vent cap, I installed the 5" Jenn-Aire vent cover purchased from PartSelect.com. The new vent is large enough to completely cover the chiseled out masonry area, and the 5" outlet reduces air noise from the dryer, but best of all the new vent provides the high quality look I needed to match the brick of my new home.

Followed the instructions given by Paul from Mickleton, NJ. Very simple, no problem. Using two small blocks of wood to hold spring loaded hinges out while I replaced the door on the hinges was a big help. Thanks for the excellent delivery time. Great service.

Finding part needed and quick shipping were great. Web site so helpful. Initial attempt to remove old part was troublesome because I took out wrong screws thinking I had to remove parts beneath burner. Once I figured it out, it was so easy.
1. Turn off power.
2. Remove 4 screws BELOW control panel (open oven door to see them)
3. Pull off 7 front knobs.
4. Lift out loosened panel.
5. Take out the two screws holding control switch to front panel. Note orientaion of switch.
6. Replace wire by wire to new switch.
7. Put it all back together. Make sure switch is put in same direction.
8. Turn power on.

Serviceman took out broken glass by removing door and separating front of door from back of door. He carefully removed all broken glass Then replaced with new glass and fastened door together . He did repair in 20 minutes. Oven is like new. Thank you very much for still stocking this part that allows me to keep my oven repaired.

Opened the oven door and locked the spring hinges in the opened position with two 10p nails. Removed the oven door. I dismantled the component parts of the door. I then removed and replaced the broken glass unit,reassembled the door, slid the door onto the hinges, tightened two screws to lock the door in place, removed the 10p nails, closed the door----- and that was it. Less than one hour. The job was accomplished using only a Phillips screwdriver.

Problem was the neutral connector spike was burned and didn’t make good connection. Service man said he couldn’t get parts and charged $100 and left.
The neutral conductor cost about $12. And was an easy fix!

Thank you PartSelect!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.