MER6555AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed 2 phillips head screws, disconnected the 2 wires. Installed new element, connected wires then installed screws. Took less than 3 minutes. What i liked was how fast I received the new element. Ordered online on Friday around 12:30 and received Saturday morning by 9:00 AM. Excellent transaction!

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

I first removed the drawer from under the oven, then I used 2 strips of packing tape to hold the front glass in place. Next I loosened the 4 screws on the bottom side of the door to the point just before they would fall out. Next I had someone help hold the glass as we removed the tape and slid the glass from under the handle and set it aside. Once the glass was off I removed the 4 screws on top of the door and the 4 screws (2 each side) holding the handle brackets. From that point it was just a couple of screws on the back of the handle to swap the broken part for new and reassembling everything. Could be done in 30 minutes, 40 by yourself. Maytag wants $24 to tell you how to do this, it's not worth the money. Also, PartSelect.com sold me the part for 30% than Sears or Maytag advertise - they've earned a permanent bookmark in my browser!

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

I removed the two small screws, gently pulled the element outward, slid the wire connectors off the ends of the element legs and reversed the process to install the new one. THE ELEMENT STILL DOES NOT HEAT. There must be a bad switch or thermostat at the ON switch area. That will be checked out by a Repair man as soon as I can get a schedule from him.

Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

Make sure you unplug your stove before you start! You should probably shut off the power at the breaker box too.

Since the upper oven is so small, I found that I couldn't reach the connectors well enough to work with them. So I pulled out the whole oven, took the screws off the back cover and from the back I was able to easily reach where the wires connected to the element. Then it was a piece of cake.

Just use a small knife to unbend the little metal things that hold on to the metal ends of the element. Slide them on to the new element, and crimp them tight with pliers.

Oh, you also have to take off the bracket on the ceiling of the inside of the oven to get the old element out, and the new one in.

The oven has been working great!

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.

Repair would have only taken minutes, but upper support plate screws were rusted and almost fused to the plate. Once the plate screws were out (had to pry plate out) installation was done in 3-5 minutes.

As for the replacement part, worked perfect on the first try. Very happy with price, speed of delivery and preformance.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!

I unscrewed the framing trim around the door, secured the new handle to the brackets and reassembled the trim....all told its about 10 screws to remove/put back in....
Thanks to Suzanne I received the replacement handle in a very timely manner from Pars Select