MGRL752BDW Maytag Range - Instructions

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.

Watched u tube video as supplied and followed instructions. Had trouble getting burners off so cleaned around edge of burners with fine bladed knife as suggested by other forum user and used oil filter type wrench to remove burner. There are three bumps on burner that hold it in place so need to turn anti clockwise to remove.

I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.

Oven and broiler have two seperate igniters. Broiler worked but oven did not heat. Oven igniter located under metal pan at base of inside of oven. remove pan by lifting, and remove completely from oven. Igniter under this pan and held in place by two srews. Remove screws, unplug from cable, replug in ne igniter, replace two srcews and pan, and you're done! this part cost about $50 and I installed, last time Sear replaced =$300.

Very easy install. Works great.

slide latches in rear of floor panel forward and remove.

Door was removed very easily. Outside trim pieces were removed. The rest came apart like a simple puzzle. Inside glass is very easily accessed. Upon assembling, time was well under an hour. Shipping was fantastic and I saved close to 200dollars between a service call and a repair.

The job itself isn't hard--just unscrew all the trim pieces holding the door together, remove the broken handle, and put in the new handle. There's nothing technical about it. The main thing is keeping track of the order that you take off various trim pieces and keeping the screws together with each piece. Because all the parts overlap in one way or another, you need them to go on in the right (reverse) order when you reassemble the door. Also, the job is MUCH easier to do if you take the door off the oven. I didn't at first see how to do that, and disassembled the door in place, which meant crawling around on the floor to reach the bottom pieces. But then I realized that the door simply lifts off of the two hinged arms at the bottom, and so I reassembled it with the door resting on the stove top. Much easier! You need to do a bit of wiggling to find the right motion to lift the door off, but once you do it comes off easily. Be aware that it's pretty heavy and you may want a second person to help. Putting it back on again can be a little tricky, because the hinges move; as soon as you get one side lined up, the other one wants to move away. But a little patience will get the job done.

All I used was a Phillips screw driver and a small adjustable wrench. I removed top burners and wires i then removed small screws holding the top cover to the assembly. Then removed top cover, in the front I removed the four nuts holding the assembly. I removed assembly and installed new ones. Assembled back the same way.

I ordered a new igniter and when it arrived, i removed the door from the oven. It just lift's off. I had to removed two screws from the bottom plate to gain access to the igniter. Remove the two screws from the igniter and unplug it from the back of the lower back of the stove. Place the new igniter where the old one was and plug it in. Put new screws in and tighten them down. Put the bottom plate back in its place with screws tightened. Put oven door back on and turn on the oven. That's all there is to it. Your done.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Removed all the racks from inside the oven, unscrewed the 6 screws that held it into the cabinet, pulled it out and sat it on the floor in front of the cabinet. Removed the oven sensor from the inside of the oven after disconnecting the wire harness from the rear right exterior of the oven. Installed new sensor from inside (2screws), plugged it into the harness in the back and reinstalled oven in the cabinet.

First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.