MER5775QAQ Maytag Range - Instructions

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

removed bottom pan cover. removed broken element. replaced with new one.. simple. would buy from this place again. shipped super fast

Removed 3 Phillips head screws at top of oven door. Tipped this top casing back just enough to remove glass door panel. Removed door mounting brackets from door (phillips). Removed end of handle from attached end of frame piece. New handle screw stubs changed from original to need self tapping screws (with washers), so had to find appropriate screws on my own (screws sent to me for new handle were straight machine screws as needed with original, broken handle). Found self tapping screws and washers, screwed new handle to brackets, screwed brackets to door panel, loosely screwed 3 top frame screws, tipped top frame back enough to reinstall glass door front, screwed down 3 top frame screws and it was done.

First I removed the oven door, then I removed the three screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I connected the two wires to the new element , replaced the three holding screws and the oven door. ------END-------

removed the two screws in the rear of the oven to access the element. once exposed I removed the four screws holding the element in place. Went to the ouitside back of the stove and removed one screw holding the shield to access the terminals for the element. Installation was in reverse order.

The bake element in this oven is covered by a tray but after locating the screws for that and removing I could see the element was burnt so I just removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) then just reversed the procedure to install. Don't forget to unplug the unit first.

Turn of power to the range. The element lies beneath a metal cover. The cover is held down by two screws in each of the back cornors. The burner element is held by a screw in the the back and by two screws near the front. Replacing the element was a snap. With the screws removed, pull on the element until the connecting wires are exposed. Pull the wires from the element and attatch to new element. Replace screws, cover etc. Turn on power and note the time it takes to reach a preset temp. You may detect a slight oder form a coating on the new element. .

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

First of all, let me say how "Not Handy" I am when it comes to these things. I decided to give this part a try after my oven decided to fail on Thanksgiving Day, so I ordered the part. It arrived on time as promised and packaged very well. The on-line parts breakout and testimony from the other buyers were so helpful. I had our oven back up and running in less than 10 minutes.

One thing I would also recommend is that you burn the element once installed for at least 15 minutes to get the newness smell off of it and then it won't permeate your food items.

Thanks, Parts Select! You saved me over $900.00; the price it was going to cost me to buy a new oven. :)

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Pull oven away from wall and unplug. with the oven door open, remove 2 rear screws holding down the element cover and pull element cover out of the oven. remove 2 screws holding element down to the bottom of the stove, and one screw holding the back of the element to the rear. now go behind the oven and remove the access plate to the element power connection (one screw). Disconnect the 2 element power wires. remove element. to install, reverse these instructions

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!