CDE8520ACB Maytag Range - Instructions

Removing the oven door and several layers of metal to get to the seal, is a fairly easy process. Our door had three different fasteners, torx head screws to remove the door, a very small flat head screwdriver to remove the chrome door trim screws, and a nut driver to remove the inner panels and glass. The replacement seal is over-large and must be trimmed. Care should be taken when fitting the integrated wire. Bending at the corners only, makes assembly much easier. Reassembly is the reverse of diassembly. Care must be taken that the seal wire hasn't popped out of it's seat when the cover is installed. This is the most time-consuming and frustrating part of the repair. Patience is paramount to get a good fit. Because I had made an odd bend in it, about one inch of wire was not properly seated after the cover was seated and tightened down. I was able to gently squeeze it into the seat with a flat tip screwdriver without removing any screws. The final problem area is reinstalling the door. Although two people would be helpful to accomplish this Task, I was able to accomplish it with the aid of a three foot piece of 2x4. By wedging the piece of lumber behind both hinges, they were held open under tension to allow slipping the door on. Once partially installed, the 2x4 can be removed and the door seated. Hope this helps.

I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294

Removed the door removed 2 inner panels Installed and reassembled A Cake Walk NOTE be careful not to strip threads

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.

even though these sre washable filters it's still necessary to change them after so much time

Received the new one. Installed it in 15 minutes. Thanks for the fast service.I will buy from you guys the next time I need a part ! Thank You, Henry

switch went well
removed 4 screws and lifed front panal up and out

Looked up schematic. Removed 3 screws holding cover. after I shut power off of course. Took off knob. Oriented new control to the one on panel. Disconnected each wire one at at time and immediately attached it to the new control for each wire. Removed screws holding old control and inserted and screwed to the new control and put the knob back on. Put the cover back on. Worked fine. Probably should replace the others as they don't turn as easily as the new one. Probably will spray some contact cleaner which will give me a few more years.

Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.

Opened the back of the cooktop and found upper right element control switch burned. I removed the retaining screws and wires and spent two weeks chasing the switch at a local dealer. Found exactly what I needed at PartSelect.com and paid less even with shipping than at the local. Installed the switch with original screws and presto!! it worked.

switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test burner in all positions

First we removed the door from the stove. Removed all the screws and removed the damaged seal. We replaced the seal and re-assembled the door.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

plugged new one in