LLR4451AJW Maytag Range - Instructions

Took the bottom out of oven then removed and replaced with the new part. VERY EASY! I'm a 70-year-old woman and do quite a few home repairs myself.

Shut off gas supply
Pulled stove away from wall removed spark ignigtor box .
Installed new one .
No problem.
Good for another 10 years

took out racks removed 2 screws holding igniter removed 4 screws on back of stove and unplug igniter. reversed the order installing the new one

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

replaced heat sensor

I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.

Very easy install. Works great.

The job itself isn't hard--just unscrew all the trim pieces holding the door together, remove the broken handle, and put in the new handle. There's nothing technical about it. The main thing is keeping track of the order that you take off various trim pieces and keeping the screws together with each piece. Because all the parts overlap in one way or another, you need them to go on in the right (reverse) order when you reassemble the door. Also, the job is MUCH easier to do if you take the door off the oven. I didn't at first see how to do that, and disassembled the door in place, which meant crawling around on the floor to reach the bottom pieces. But then I realized that the door simply lifts off of the two hinged arms at the bottom, and so I reassembled it with the door resting on the stove top. Much easier! You need to do a bit of wiggling to find the right motion to lift the door off, but once you do it comes off easily. Be aware that it's pretty heavy and you may want a second person to help. Putting it back on again can be a little tricky, because the hinges move; as soon as you get one side lined up, the other one wants to move away. But a little patience will get the job done.

Oven and broiler have two seperate igniters. Broiler worked but oven did not heat. Oven igniter located under metal pan at base of inside of oven. remove pan by lifting, and remove completely from oven. Igniter under this pan and held in place by two srews. Remove screws, unplug from cable, replug in ne igniter, replace two srcews and pan, and you're done! this part cost about $50 and I installed, last time Sear replaced =$300.

Removed two screws and disconnected the ignition wire. Then connected ignition wire to new burner and installed two screws

I ordered a new igniter and when it arrived, i removed the door from the oven. It just lift's off. I had to removed two screws from the bottom plate to gain access to the igniter. Remove the two screws from the igniter and unplug it from the back of the lower back of the stove. Place the new igniter where the old one was and plug it in. Put new screws in and tighten them down. Put the bottom plate back in its place with screws tightened. Put oven door back on and turn on the oven. That's all there is to it. Your done.

slide latches in rear of floor panel forward and remove.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

I took the door off and removed five phillip screws from the old bottom support and removed it. I took the opportunity to clean the glass on the front and back before placing it back on. It simply fits into two keepers at top and is held on by the new support at the bottom. I replaced the five screws and put the door back on. It is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.

1. Remove the oven door by opening a few inches and lifting straight up. Remove racks to access it. 2. The old igniter is just held in by two nuts that have a screw head in the middle of them so they could be removed by a nut driver or by a screwdriver. Unfortunately, both of our screws threads were terribly stripped and after first trying to use pliers to help remove them, we ended up using a dremel tool to cut them off. 3. unplug the old igniter and take it out. 4. Plug in the new igniter. 5. attach the two screws. (our time on the repair was mostly spent trying to find two screws around our house that would replace the two that were stripped--otherwise this would have been 15 minutes). 6. return the door and racks by the sliding the door downwards onto the hinges