MER6770AAC Maytag Range - Instructions

When the element failed, it continued to glow nearly white-hot and slowly burned along a spiral path on the element. I figured this MUST be due to a voltage leak - the control was OFF on the range.

I shut off the breaker, removed the two screws where the element goes through the back of the oven, pulled the element forward and pulled the wires off of the element. (Found it handy to twist the wire connectors outward to prevent the wires from slipping through the back of the oven.)

A new element won't "fit" exactly but you can easily push it into position to get the screw holes to line up. Total time was less than 15 minutes.

Ordered the part from your company. It arrived promptly. Gave to to my two sons 22 & 29. They fixed it.

Very easy........................................

Turned OFF the circuit breaker. Unscrewed the old and screwed in the new. Very easy. There were helpful hints from other people on the web site, ie. turn off the circuit breaker first.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

Easier than making a pie! Unscrewed 4 screws and detached the element from the back of the small upper oven. Connected the new element and put the 4 screws back in place. We saved $129 service fee by doing this ourselves not to mention the markup on parts. Shipping was very quick! While I hope to not have to do this again...I would do it again in a split second!

I took the back panel off, removed the old lens, installed the new lens. How easy to order from home, receive the part, do the repair and pay less than it costs to simply drive to the parts house. Cool....

The entire "project" took me less than 3 minutes, and required no tools at all! First, the saleswoman over the phone pointed me to the correct product for my problem ($30 less than what I thought I needed), and it arrived at my home within 4 days. Then, it was just a matter of pulling off the old gasket, and snapping the new one in place! Simple!

I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

We moved into a house with seemingly newer looking appliances. After the dishwasher broke and destroyed our floor, we found out that they were all twelve years old. Amazing the condition they were in after all that time.

The oven was the next thing to break. The hinge snapped, and while we could still use the oven, it allowed hot air to seep out.

So I checked online and lo and behold, I found a hinge for under $20. Wow. Much cheaper than a new range.

The most amazing thing was that I purchased it on a Friday afternoon, and it showed up on Saturday, so we could do the repair over the weekend. I cannot tell you how impressed I am with that kind of service.

We had to take off the side panel which was a pain, but all in all, it was 7-8 screws and swapping the hinge was easy. One of the screws did not want to go back in, so I had to find a replacement, but other than that, it was a pretty easy repair.

Thanks!

Removed two retaining screws and pulled out coil. one terminal came off readily but one remained and was difficult to get off. Pulled range out from wall and removed cover plate and removed existing terminal connection. Pushed new coil into oven openings and screwed in. Slide terminals on in the rear of range and replaced cover plate. Took about 1/2 hour because I was nervous.

1) unplugged stove, 2) opened oven door, 3) removed racks, 4) Unscrewed heat element plate, 5) removed broken heat element, 6) connected new heat element, 7) re screwed in the plate, 8) plugged stove in, 9) turned oven on to verify new heat element was working, 10) placed rack back in oven. Done!

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.