CRG7400CAE Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed cover from igniter, took off wires, replaced wires on new one, secured in place, put cover back on.

Removed the old burners with a Plumbing Pipe Wrench by turning 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Disconnected (2) wires and replaced with new Sealed Burners. The simmer burner wires were slightly diffrent from the original but they do fit by opening the connector with screwdriver and then clamping once wire inserted.

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

The spark moule was accessed by removing the bottom storage draw and removing the 2 phillips screws that held the spark module bracket to the frame of the stove located on the rear right side of the draw opening. The new module did come with new spade connectors that reqires cutting the existing connectors off and splicing and crimping the new connectors to the wires for each of the four burners depending on the model stove. Also I had to use zip ties to secure the new module to the original mounting hardware since the replacement module is not a direct fit. Each of the four burners now instantaneoulsly ignite when turned on. I will buy from Partselect.com in the future. Thank you.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

I order the replacement parts from parts select and they arrived in 3 days. To remove the old parts it only required an open end wrench and a screw driver. The gas lines were removed from the valves and the entire tubing system was unscrewed from the range top. As the tubing was broken this was easy. As for the installation of the new parts that was a bit more difficult. Freddy helped me hold the range top up about 4" in the front and the tubing had to be carefully bent to mate with the valve fitting. With all the fittings tightened the oven was tested for leaks and all was ok. The burners were all working and the home that was without a stove for 8 weeks is now ccoking with gas. As anote I did place two metal tabs on the oven with pop rivets so Freddy won't break the new lines.

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

Thank you PartSelect. I am a single mother and when my thermostat knob broke I thought I was going to have to buy a new stove. But I went on-line to see if the knob was available to purchase. Finding and ordering the knob couldn't have been easier on your website and I had it in my hand in 2 days. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.

1. Grab the old burner and twist counter-clockwise. 2. Unplug the wire from the old igniter, simply pull off. 3. Take new burner/igniter (this new one comes all-in-one) and reattach the wire to the igniter underneath. 4. Place the burner so the 'nubs' line up with the stove top and then twist clockwise a short amount, it should turn slightly to lock in place. 5. Test. Mine sparked and started better than it has since i have had the stove