MER6771AAC Maytag Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- James from Chesapeake, VA
- Parts Used:
- WP7730P011-60, WP7403P239-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
could not control burner temp.
removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover
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- Customer:
- Brian from Haverhill, MA
- Parts Used:
- WP7406P428-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
no problems
Easy as pie
2 screws to loosen and 2 wires to connect on blades of element.
This job couldnt be easier. Just remember to SHUT THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON 220v stove.
2 screws to loosen and 2 wires to connect on blades of element.
This job couldnt be easier. Just remember to SHUT THE POWER OFF BEFORE WORKING ON 220v stove.
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- Customer:
- Claudine from Bethlehem, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.
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- Customer:
- Edward from Juliustown, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Steinhatchee, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
right rear burner was inop for last 4 years
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Clarksville, MD
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
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- Customer:
- Gary from Stockton, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10823711
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Glass top electric range element not working
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
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- Customer:
- Mary L. from Trinity, TX
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven door locked and was flashing code F4
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
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- Customer:
- Don from Horseshoe Bay, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7406P428-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burned out lower element
It's easy!!! I supervised my wife installing the element. She did great (probably because of my great supervision).
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- Customer:
- sean from easthampton, MA
- Parts Used:
- 12001656
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
defective oven sensor
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
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- Customer:
- Lonnie from Ashton, ID
- Parts Used:
- W10823697
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Stovetop element burned out
First of all, I shut off the electricity to the stove.
I had to remove the two screws holding the stovetop in place. I then lifted it up and braced it to keep it from falling, removed the bad element, carefully marking the 4 wires that were connected to the element. I then disconnected the wires, and removed the two brackets holding the element in place. I replaced it with the new element, reconnected the wires, returned the stovetop to it's original place, put the two stovetop screws in, and turned on the electricity. Then I turned on the element, and it works just fine.
I had to remove the two screws holding the stovetop in place. I then lifted it up and braced it to keep it from falling, removed the bad element, carefully marking the 4 wires that were connected to the element. I then disconnected the wires, and removed the two brackets holding the element in place. I replaced it with the new element, reconnected the wires, returned the stovetop to it's original place, put the two stovetop screws in, and turned on the electricity. Then I turned on the element, and it works just fine.
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- Customer:
- David from Bexley, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10162384
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
My wife destroyed the oven door seal with oven cleaner...
I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Lancaster, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10823709
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Element did not heat
Removed stove top. Removed old element paying attention to wiring connections. Installed new element. Redconnected wiring. Put stove top back in place. Tested. Ate dinner.
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- Customer:
- Mary from Woodland, WA
- Parts Used:
- 7201P017-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rubber gasket failed due to age
I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as good as new.
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- Customer:
- Carl from Rowlette, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP7406P428-60
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
I Had no or low heat from lower element
Well all that was needed was to remove the two screws that held the element to the frame. I remove the screws and the two connection from the element. PLUG N PLAY. It's working and my wife is happy.
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